The Air Bridge - 1990

Operation - No name, No heroes

By now most of you would have seen the airlift movie and decided one way or the other about how the hundred thousand plus people were rescued from Kuwait. I watched the movie too and it took me back to those days when I was living in Saudi Arabia, just across the border, right through that war.

It all comes back vividly, starting with the dinner at ‘Rice Bowl’ in Brigade road Bangalore. I was to fly back to Riyadh the next day and the dinner tasted heavenly. But soon I was doubled up with stomach cramps and bouts of vomiting and diarrhea. The flight out of Bangalore to Bombay was at 8 or so in the morning and I was in no shape to make it, but my cousin managed to get find a doctor who was up early and I got a shot which stabilized things a bit. At Bombay, I had to wait until the early hours of the next morning to catch the Saudia flight to Riyadh. As I woke up in the transit hotel room and picked up the newspapers on Friday, August 3rd 1990, I saw the big bold headlines – Saddam invades Kuwait.


At about 2 a.m. local time on 2nd August, over hundred thousand Iraqi forces marched into Kuwait. Kuwait’s virtually nonexistent defense was overwhelmed, and the Kuwaiti populace fled. The Emir of Kuwait, his family, and other government leaders fled to Dammam in Saudi Arabia, and within hours Kuwait City had been captured and the Iraqis had established a provincial government.

Interrogations of Saddam by the FBI interrogator Piro many years later revealed that what really infuriated Saddam was the Kuwaiti Emir Al Sabah’s remark to the Iraqi foreign minister that he would not stop doing what he was doing (overproduction against OPEC recommendations even with the oil price in the dumps at close to $12 per barrel) until he turned every Iraqi woman into a $10 prostitute. According to former Iraqi Foreign Minister Tariq Aziz, "every US$1 drop in the price of a barrel of oil caused a US$1 billion drop in Iraq's annual revenues triggering an acute financial crisis in Baghdad.

Back in our office, things were going on as usual, but there was much talk of what was happening in Kuwait. News trickled in from BBC radio, for we did not have any CNN or any kind of international channels in the heavily censored Saudi Arabia. Rumors floated around, of US Ambassador April Glaspie’s meeting with Saddam, Saddam’s anger at Kuwaiti slant drilling into Rumaila oil wells, Saddam’s inability to pay the 14b$ Kuwaiti debt, the low oil price and all that stuff. There was a certain amount of nervousness in the air and many a person thought that Saddam would target Saudi next. Others countered that Saudi was an American ally and so the Americans would protect Saudi Arabia. Nevertheless business continued on as usual, my family returned back after their vacation and life was back to a semblance of normalcy.

Operation Desert Shield was soon put into place, US forces were being sent to Riyadh by the thousands and there was talk of Operation Desert Storm to liberate Kuwait. Across the Border, Saddam defiantly announced that Kuwait was Iraq’s 19th province and settled a no-interference treaty with Iran, by sharing the waters of Shatt al Arab. Saddam then installed Alaa Hussein Ali as the Prime Minister of the "Provisional Government of Free Kuwait" and Ali Hassan al-Majid, as the de facto governor of Kuwait.

In Kuwait life had turned topsy-turvy. Kuwaiti’s became targets for the Iraqi army riffraff, and as the westerners flew out, Filipino and Indian expatriates wondered what to do next. The Palestinian and Yemeni expat worker threw their lot with the invader. Over 300,000 Kuwaitis fled Kuwait. Many of the Kuwaitis reached Dammam and Riyadh and an entire housing complex in Riyadh with thousands of empty apartments, as though waiting for them, was granted for their stay. A Kuwaiti government in exile was established at Taif.

The Indian in Kuwait was in a quandary. They were not targeted by the Iraqi, they did not invite their ire except for the reported rape of many Indian (and Filipina) housemaids who were left alone in the empty homes after their Kuwaiti masters fled. They could walk around freely, though remaining careful and humble of the gun toting teenager and visibly hyper ventilating boy soldiers. For once their color and countenance came to their rescue, and the darker Indian look ensured safety. So what was the expat worker and his family supposed to do? Leave, or stay and work for new masters or what? It was soon clear that there was no way out with a closure of ports and airports and the implementation of UN sanctions.

Many do not know why India and Iraqi’s were on friendly terms at that point of time. Starting with the “Treaty of Perpetual peace and friendship” in 1952 and an agreement of cooperation on the cultural affairs in 1954, Iraq supported the Indian government in almost all global fronts (except the Indian involvement in the Bangladesh crisis). Saddam visited India in 1974 and Indira Gandhi reciprocated in 1975. The trade relationship flourished with huge construction projects carried out by India and deployment of thousands of workers for a while but the Iran-Iraq war brought it down to a crash. The oil workers from India relocated to other gulf countries, but the relationship remained strong. Iraq had supported India’s right to conduct nuclear weapons on May 11 and May 13, 1988. In 2000, the Vice President Tahe Ramadhan’s visit to India and on August 6, 2002 President Saddam Hussein conveyed Iraq’s “unwavering support” to India over the Kashmir dispute with Pakistan.

And so, India was caught between the proverbial rock and a hard place over the Iraqi invasion of Kuwait on August 2nd 1990. On the other hand, India was dependent on Iraq and Kuwait for 40% of its annual oil imports and in addition to a substantial trade relationship, an estimated 185,000 Indian workers were now stranded in the area of hostilities.Until then, India imported about 22 million tons of crude oil from Iraq, and 1.5 million tons from Kuwait. With the war, India had to approach Saudi Arabia, Malaysia and Venezuela for making up the short fall. The sharp increases in the price of crude oil from US $ 14 to $ 30 per barrel resulted in a decline in India’s foreign exchange position and increased its oil import bill up to US $ 100 million. The remittances dropped by Rs 200 crores, exports dropped by Rs 360 crores and the expatriation costs were expected to be Rs 400 crores. The lost contracts worked out to Rs 400 crores and in total the balance of payment deteriorated by 3 billion dollars.

The ministers and bureaucrats faced a difficult situation - at least some of the older staff may have remembered a previous calamity when the government erred and hundreds of thousands of Indians died. That was Burma in 1942, as the WWII’s Eastern was intensified, and when close to half a million Indians died in their flight to India or in the death railway, due to Japanese callousness. The British Indian government led by an errant Churchill was more interested in feeding its army and British citizens rather than the famine stricken masses in Bengal or those in Burma. The death march to the Assam border on one side and the death railway in South east Burma on the other, decimated thousands to disease and malnutrition, let alone fatigue. Most of the victims were poor Indians, mostly from the erstwhile Madras presidency - Tamilians, Malayali’s and Telugu workers and their families.

The 1990-91 Indian government did not perhaps want a repeat of that horrible tragedy. A majority of these marooned civilians in Kuwait were incidentally, Malayali’s. Did they remember all this while preparing to act? I don’t know. If they did, did they do the right thing or wrong? In many ways the situations are somewhat similar. The Indian government was headed by the relatively inexperienced Janata dal ministry headed by VP Singh. IK Gujral was the external affairs minister. Arif Mohammed Khan’s team dealt with civil aviation and the surface transport ministry was with KP Unnikrishnan (with additional charge of Communications ministry). Unnikrishnan, incidentally, was not famed for fast action on any files which reached him.

Suresh Kumar Pillai in his paper mentions the total powerlessness of the Kerala state Government in
the Delhi power corridors, since the leftist party though supporting the central government had little bargaining power. He mentions that K.P. Unnikrishnan, the lone Malayalee member of the cabinet acknowledged to the press that even he, was not able to access the files that he needed from external affairs Ministry. And so, as the ministers and politicians wrangled in Delhi, the situation in Kuwait simply heated up. The rabble rousing Iraqi army made life miserable for the people still in Kuwait. Further problems ensued when Palestinian looters started attacking Indian homes.

Two weeks had elapsed after the invasion. The suave IK Gujral made his visit to Baghdad to secure support for the evacuation of Indians. He passed by Kuwait, irritated people with some unnecessary comments but promised that speedy help was underway and took back with him the very rich and famous Indians in what was infamously known as the millionaires flight, irritating the poor masses who felt horribly slighted. A sufferer recounts - When we asked Gujral what will happen to our investments in Kuwait, he replied, 'I told you for so many years to invest in India. You didn't listen to me. Now you will have to suffer.

A couple of military flights were arranged at first, with leaders in the Indian community working with the embassy to pick out the infirm, elderly, women and children to fly back. But once they had all returned to India, the government realized that military transport – which is much more cumbersome because of air space clearances – would not do the job.

Two sources gave me a reasonable idea of the situation in Kuwait during the next month. One is a book written by O Misbah about those terrible days as well as his flight from Kuwait to Jordan, and the other a very nice blog by Roji Abraham. I will summarize what they experienced and how thousands of Indians moved from Kuwait to Amman. They lived in fear in their own houses, sometimes friends lounging together in one of the houses to minimize cooking and to assuage their fears. Food was not impossible to come by if you could pay and basics like rice and spices were available if you wandered around. Offices shut down, airlines stopped operation, medicines were all gone, most shops and large Kuwaiti homes got looted. The Palestinians who remained professed support to Saddam and the Iraqis started a campaign of destruction of the Kuwaiti identity by organized looting and destruction of government records. Large posters and mosaic frescos of Saddam went up. Some Indians hoped to be rescued from Kuwait but others saw that it was best to join an exodus to Amman where it was perhaps possible to find a flight back to India, as food started to run out and as all the money they had in their person ran out.

The logistics problem was that Amman was directly across Iraq and to reach there the desert road trip transiting Baghdad totaled to some 1800 km. There were quite a few private buses run by Iraqis charging a hefty fee and most families took that route. In the process, they left behind whatever they had, traveling with bare minimum by way of clothes and secreting money (the dinars which they had were by this time were worthless) in their bodies. Some fortunately had dollars in hand and pooled it to help others in the bus. Both the bus drivers and gangs operating on the way boarded and robbed the passengers at will according to some reports. But by and far, the Iraqi soldier did not maim any Indians. The overnight trip brought them to Baghdad where they somehow managed their morning ablutions and picked up some bread and fruits before continuing on to the Jordan border. Their destination was the border crossing points of Jordan. This was the unorganized flight, based on the initiatives of individuals, using their money, courage and resources.

Was there some kind of organization which tried to help the unorganized? Actually there was .Was the Indian embassy closed? Yes and no, for the embassy was shifted to Basra, as ordered by Saddam, while a lone officer named Sen Gupta remained. Was a school used by the committee or some of the refugees? Apparently KTB Menon’s Indian school in Salmiya was. Indians crowded the embassy compound after supplies, especially water supplied by tankers for a price, were slowing down. The only item available freely and in abundance was the Kobus – or the pita bread of the Middle East.

The person who assumed leadership of the Indian citizens committee ICC, was the architect and well connected Harbajan Singh Vedi. He also took over as the defacto ambassador, since IK Gujral had authorized him to issue and sign passports and travel documents, and he played a pivotal role in the later initiatives.  He formed a 51 member unofficial committee coordinating the events related to the organized part of the evacuation. Amongst its members were Sunny Mathews, Narindar Singh Sethi, N.V.K. Warrier, Abhi Varikad, Thomas Chandy, Roy Abraham, K.K. Nair, Ali Hussain and many others. Many of them had large investments in Kuwait and did not rush out, hoping for a settlement which never happened.

Sengupta the representative of the Indian embassy records that 80 buses would roll out every day to Jordan. He explains - We would do the paperwork for undertaking the journey in the morning before getting the list of passengers ready for the next day. The first challenge was to prepare over 100,000 travel documents. Delhi had initially sent two planes to Kuwait for evacuation. Ships began arriving a lot later. With nearly a lakh people stranded, I had to look at the alternative of bulk evacuation by road. Sunny Mathews, an extremely resourceful Indian working in Toyota, did a great job negotiating with private bus operators for evacuation via Iraq to Jordan by road.

Communication was a problem as the telephone network went down. A Malayali HAM radio enthusiast Shaji John Verghese came to the rescue setting up a link in the embassy. Verghese, using the call sign of ek-do-teen tango, called India, often speaking to the Ministry of External Affairs. He spoke through another HAM radio operator in Kerala in Malayalam just in case the Iraqis were monitoring the airwaves. But all he could do was get situation reports to Delhi and get the latest news of the events related to the war situation.  

Buses organized by the ICC after agreement with Saddam, started shepherding those who wanted to leave through Basra, Baghdad and eventually to the Jordanian border. As the buses started their arduous trips to the Jordan borders, a number of people managed to escape through three freighter ships.

In September, 725 Indians managed to leave on the private freighter Safeer which had been stranded in Kuwaiit. Safeer (a freighter meant to carry 30 passengers) carried 722 passengers, including 265 women and children in a 48-hour haul to Dubai, no mean feat and a harrowing tale. While the owners of Safeer - tried to persuade officials in the shipping, defense and external affairs ministries in India for authorizations as it was a Panama registered cargo ship not supposed to transport people, Capt Modak negotiated with authorities in Dubai. Being a cargo ship, MV Safeer wasn’t legally allowed to ferry passengers. Life jackets and life boats were sourced in Kuwait, and temporary toilets made from drums with gunny bags to provide as a curtain around the makeshift toilets. It made the trip safely, followed by the ship Akbar with 1800 people. It was followed by Tipu Sutan which also ferried some 700 or so people to Dubai. Dubai’s Indian leaders organized to receive and repatriate them to India.

Whoever could flee, fled on road and finally some 20,000 Indians chose to remain in Kuwait.  On November 7, after more than two months of bone breaking work, Sengupta relinquished charge of the embassy and left Kuwait. Now we move to the terrible border camps in Jordan where all these people in the bus trips landed up.

The Indian embassy/special office in Amman was manned by Gajendra Singh, a very interesting character whom I met many years later in Istanbul Turkey during a dinner. His own role in the airlift is stated as exemplary by some and circumspect by others. Nevertheless they were deeply involved and participating, all the way. The Indian embassy had moved early to rent out rooms at astronomical prices in order to house refugees at apartments and hotels. While some found refuge in these rooms (30-40 in a room!) till they were ferried out to camps and then out by airlifts, the vast majority went directly to and spent even more time in transit camps in the desert braving sandstorms and fistfights.

These camps, remembered as hellholes by the survivors were, Azraq, Shaalan 1 and 2, Mercy and a few others. The Azraq camp northeast of Amman, built by the International Red Cross, was somewhat OK, but the living conditions in Shaalan near the Iraqi border, were harsh. Initially over 40 percent of the refugees in this camp were without shelter and by mid-September, lacked food and water making the situation critical, with the temperature rising to the higher 40’s and dipping to chilling teens at night. Salil Tripathi and Ramesh Menon wrote about the situation (see linked article) 

Those who have been able to leave have had to brave the desert, marauding greenhorn soldiers en route and scorching 50-degree heat. They have come in thousands: Egyptians in sweat-soaked dishdashes, Bangladeshis in tattered lungis, Pakistanis in dust-smeared Pathani outfits. And, of course, the ubiquitous Indians - Sikhs, Gujaratis, Maharashtrians, Goans, and Malayalees. They haven't eaten properly for days, their hair is rough and covered with dust, their skin parched, their voices hoarse, and their throats dry. Nearly 26,000 people, including around 2,000 Indians, cross Iraq every day and reach Ruwishied. Some camps had primus stoves and gave out sardines and rice to cook, but at others they had to stand in long snaking lines and collect Kobus and water, as and when the Red Cross trucks came. The toilets were primitive with tin sheets.

As the refugees piled into these camps on a daily basis, the pressure to get them out was terrible on both the Indian embassy staff in Jordan as well as the central government in Delhi. Soon the newspapers in Kerala started reporting through their reporters visiting the camps, of the sad plight of their compatriots in the desert, adding to the pressure cooker tight situation. Somebody had to act and the South block fingers pointed at the surface transport minister Unnikrishnan as well as the civil aviation minister Arif Mohammed khan.

Readers may wonder how a surface transport and telecom minister got involved in this international fracas. Well simply because he was from Kerala and because the vast majority of the Kuwaiti refugees in Amman were from Kerala. It was also probably because the ministry of shipping was under surface transport at that time, and the original plan may have been to use ships to bring out the big number of refugees.

In a 1991 interview Unni explained - "There was much anxiety back home about the fate of the Indians in Kuwait, especially in Kerala from where thousands had been working in the Gulf. Initially, there were some misgivings about the logistical and diplomatic constraints involved. But some of us convinced the Prime Minister and got the cabinet mandate to carry out the plans.  I was entrusted with the task of overseeing the operation," he added. Unni was deputed to Amman with Khan, to oversee the situation on the ground.

Unni says "Having been authorized by the Cabinet, the first thing I did was to alert the Indian missions in West Asian countries. The first option was to seek the help of IAF. The Pakistanis and Iranians would not provide air clearances to the air force Ilyushin II -76 cargo and troop carrier planes, Iraq also refused. The IL76 planes fondly called gajraj (elephant king) could have carried large numbers of refugees directly to India, but the plan failed. Ships were not allowed into Kuwait and the UN embargo made it initially impossible and then as recorded by Unnikrishnan there was a bigger problem, some water lanes had been mined by the Allies.

Unnikrishnan and the Delhi think-tank had in the meantime hit upon an idea. Over 14 Airbus 320’s had been grounded after the fatal crash of IA605 at Bangalore just a few months earlier. The VP Singh government grounded the rest of the 320 fleet pending investigation. The evacuation team decided to use these Airbus A320 after necessary checks. But they were short haul planes with a capacity of just 180-190 seats. So the plan was to use them to ferry the Indians from Amman to Dubai and use bigger planes to get them out of Dubai and back to Bombay. It would also provide much training on these fly by wire planes for the Indian pilots with clear desert visibility.

Things did not go well originally at Amman when Unnikrishnan approached the Jordanian regents around the 26th of August, who, while extending moral support, said the country was not in a position to provide logistics. In fact when he went to meet the king and later the refugees at the camp, he was abused, booed upon, pelted with eggs and tomatoes and jeered by the suffering Indians at the camp. Thoroughly shaken but galvanized, he talked to VP Singh from Amman, to hasten the evacuation. KM Abduraheem also visited the camps with Unni to pacify the suffering humanity.

K.P. Unnikrishnan who met Saddam and got the approval for the airlift, termed the camp conditions "unimaginable". Dilip Bobb and Salil Tripathi explain - The situation was becoming terrible at the border camps - The teeming mass of humanity stretches as far as the eye can see. The strips of cloth the refugees have tied together as makeshift tents offer little protection from the hammering heat or the blinding sands. Jordanian authorities have named the makeshift camp Sha'alaan. The refugees, have christened it 'hell on earth'. Fights break out over a piece of khuboos (unleavened bread) or a bottle of mineral water. Here, out in the barren wastes, it is Darwinism in action: the survival of the fittest. Burly sardars surge through the crowds milling around water trucks, elbowing aside undernourished Gujaratis and Malayalis.

Meanwhile Air India’s pilots were wary of the airlift since some of their pilots had been held in Iraq and had no security assuraces. This was cleared up and a field office was set up in Amman with external affairs ministry’s KP Fabien, Air India’s Mascarenhas, others like GK Pillai, C Almayo, Rajeev Sadanandan, Ratan Sehgal and Anand Kumar, while refugees continued pouring into the camps, waiting for transport to India. “It’s not like we didn’t make mistakes," said Mascarenhas later. “We misjudged numbers a lot and, remember, we didn’t have mobile phones there. When people ask me how we did it, I say, I looked up at heaven and said, god help me. When we landed in Amman, there were already 5,000 to 7,000 Indians there and the numbers started swelling immediately.”

Out in the camps, the camp coordinators would publish lists of people who were to head to Amman, from where Air-India did the ‘airlift’. There were other mercy carriers as well, such as Emirates airlines, but Air India flew the maximum out. The first airlift took place on August 13, on the tenth day after the invasion and continued for 59 days until the last Indian wanting to return was back.

Shekhar Gupta records - Queen Aaliyah airport remained open through the war and most international airlines continued their scheduled flights uninterrupted. The then Civil Aviation Minister Arif Mohammed Khan was on board the first Air India flight to land in Amman for the Airlift and Telecom Minister K.P. Unnikrishnan spent almost two months in Amman helping out, particularly as a majority of workers were his fellow Malayalis.

The AI AB 320 flight’s increased their frequencies and eventually, Air India would go on to fly 488 flights over 59 days, carrying 111,711 passengers, still unmatched in the Guinness book of records. It was a stupendous task carried out with so little, by so few and so quickly.

Whatever said and done, ‘Airlift’ the movie brought attention to a sad 6 month period when thousands of Indians in Kuwait saw hell. Just so most people get the right perspective, I suspect that the character played by Akshay Kumar was the late HS Vedi who headed the 51 member ICC in Kuwait, though the individual also represents many others of the ICC such as KTB Menon, Sunny Thomas, KK Nair and so on, each who played his part in creating a semblance of order amidst the chaos of occupation and a desperate need to fly back home….

It is alright to be bitter, especially if you have struggled to save money in the gulf and lost all of it, and for that reason many were and are bitter, even today. They wonder how the westerner flew out while they suffered in indignity. They remember their experiences at the embassies and compare it to the others, and I tend to agree, having been to our embassies scores of times. I too truly hope that Indian embassies of the future become the faces of a proud country and not show themselves to be windows of red tape and corruption. But then again, consider for a moment, which embassy handles the kind of NRI volume like the Indian embassy or consulate, with so little by way of funds?

I met Gajendra Singh, the ambassador to Jordan, whom we talked about earlier, in Istanbul, some years later, but we did not discuss all this, we talked about the influence of Turkic languages on Urdu, a subject which he was a master on.

Nevertheless, we have to contend with the political horse trading in Delhi– even today, Delhi politics is regional and caste based just as KP Unnikrishnan once attested. Malayali’s are remembered in Delhi only when the central coffers need gulf money to prop them up or when somebody wants to bash Krishna Menon (who was actually less Malayali than any Malayali) and his Chinese war handling.

It is veritable horse trading at best. Now you may wonder how horse trading got such a reputation, right? I will tell you that story soon. Maybe AK Antony and Shashi Tharoor will recount their stories too, someday. Unfortunately it also teaches you the sad fact of life – To each unto his own….

As for me, well, I was one of the first civilians visiting Kuwait on the heels of the American and Saudi military forces participating in the Desert Storm. The four of us, a Swede, a Norwegian, a German and myself were sent out from Riyadh, behind the army, to do a damage assessment of Kuwait’s power grid and help get it back on. It was a hair raising trip, spending some two weeks in a city with no power or water, darkened and cold by oil smoke from the burning wells, little food and with arbitrary shooting between the allies and the Palestinians now and then. I did come across an odd Malayali now and then. Anyway, we were indeed lucky to make it out alive, after accomplishing our task. But that is a story for another day….

References
The Iraqi Occupation of Kuwait: An Eyewitness Account - Shafeeq Ghabra
India and Iraq - Kuwait Crisis - Dr. Md. Aminuzzaman
Strife of Decades – Odayam Misbah
India: A Portrait - Patrick French
At Large in the World: A Memoir - By Harish Chandola
Gulf dreams essays on Migration of Malayalees to Gulf countries– Suresh K Pillai
India today article 1,
Times of Kuwait article http://www.timeskuwait.com/Times_August-2--Rekindling-faith-in-Humanity

Notes

1.    Harish Chandola is less charitable to Gajendra Sigh’s role white testifying to Unnikrishnan’s stellar role. He says that Singh never visited any transit camp and was busy writing reports. He also hints to Unnikrishnan unearthing a certain amount of embassy corruption, as the money sent from Delhi to help the refuges was seemingly misappropriated. I understood that Singh was punished for it, but the ICC in Kuwait testified otherwise (see this letter sent by HS Vedi and posted by Singh in his blog)

2.       Kulbir Singh Babrah’s story is remarkable –He had difficulties boarding the mercy flights since his wife was a Filipina. This brave man then joined a 47 car convoy from Kuwait to Iraq and on to Turkey, Iran, Pakistan and through to India. That must have been quite a tale!!!

3.       India submitted a claim of 3.3B$ to the UN compensation fund relating to these refugees. Originally all the people who boarded the airlift had to sign a bond promising to pay back the ticket amount, but this was subsequently waived.

Pics
To see how these camps looked like, see these images


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Remembering Lakshmi N Menon, a lady diplomat

LAKSHMI Nandan MENON (1899–1994)

Few would remember this unassuming, khadi clad diplomat who handled external affairs for India during and after the Chinese debacle. She held together with great dignity, the fraying edges of the visible Indian fabric, the declining clout in the international scene and the last vestiges of the NAM or nonaligned movement. Lakshmi Menon was instrumental in a determined defense of the fort after the mood went south at Delhi’s South block, led by the downcast Jawaharlal Nehru, deeply hurt and depressed after the Chinese betrayal. Lakshmi who was in the thick of things, her words and actions deeply rooted in Gandhian principles, chose not to pen her autobiography, nor did well known colleagues and writers doting on populist figures, mention her in their writings. That was always what she was famous for, working quietly behind the scenes, trying to usher order amidst chaos.

Crisscrossing the world, meeting and hobnobbing with world leaders and dignitaries did nothing to her ego and she chose to let her work do the talking. An intense and skillful orator, she easily held her ground in parliament debates and rapid-fire but sometimes foolishly crude questioning by politicians of lesser intellect. Reading about her, my only feeling is the sadness that people of my generation and those in the future never saw people of stupendous character like her. In the end, sadly, history books and collective memory tend to leave out women of such superlative talent and ability, women like Lakshmi Menon, who carried on quietly and effortlessly with their path breaking work in that cacophonic Delhi world of politics.

As AIWC’s Shobana Ranade wrote, she was not only at home with the rich and famous but also well accepted by the lonely and the lost labor class women in her home state. Perhaps it was all these qualities which made the higher being bestow upon her a long 95 years in this world among us and well, she spent each of those years as one should, in selfless fashion and with strict honesty, whilst crusading for women’s rights.

Lakshmi N. Menon was a teacher, lawyer, politician and activist. Born in March 1899 at Trivandrum to the famous reformer, and educationalist - Rama Varma Thampan and Madhavikutty Amma, the little girl lost her mother at the age of 6 and was brought up by her grandmother Lakshmikutty Amma.

Lakshmi studied at the Maharajas school in Trivandrum, continuing on at the Maharajas arts college to attain her BA in history in 1920, together with the University medal for proficiency in English. She then took to teaching at the Maharajas high school, while at the same time pursuing a master’s degrees in economics and social sciences, which she got in 1922. She then moved to Lady Willingdon training college, Madras and sailed across the seas to the Maria Grey training college London, acquiring high qualifications as an educator. During the 1920’s and 30’s, a number of luminaries influenced her thought, people like Annie Besant, Margret Cousins and Sarojini Naidu. She was in London when the ‘Mother India’ book furor erupted.

Lakshmi began her teaching career at Queen Mary’s College, Madras, where she taught till 1926 after which she moved to the Ghokale School in Calcutta. In May 1930, she was married off to the well-known Prof V.K. Nandan Menon, then a professor at the Lucknow University. She followed her husband to Lucknow where she taught at the Isabella Thoburn College until 1932 by which time she also picked up a law degree from the Lucknow University. She then practiced law till 1935 and picked up a diploma in French language from Paris in 1939. When her husband took a senior position at Patna, Lakshmi became the principal of the women’s training college in Patna 1951-53. She would always encourage community lunches cooked in one hour while teaching at the Patna College. In those lunches, they sang, debated, joked and handled more serious subjects. That was her method of team creation and empowerment of women and breaking student teacher barriers.

It was in London that Lakshmi Menon met Nehru for the first time, perhaps in one of Krishna Menon’s many gatherings at the India league. Later they traveled for a seminar together in Russia and it was while she was in Patna that Nehru who remembered the bright, intelligent and chirpy lady, convinced her to join politics and nominated her to the Rajya Sabha, getting her elected from Bihar in 1952. He later appointed her to the UN general assembly and as his minister for external affairs.

At the White House
Her exposure to the world scene started in 1948 when she was an alternate delegate to the UN general assembly's 3rd session. She then attended conferences in Beirut and other places, while continuing on her work with the UN. Overcoming initial reservations she served well, also attending to UN affairs a number of times as Alternate Delegate from India. In 1949-1950 she headed the UN Section on the Status of Women and Children. She started with the Indian government in 1952 as a deputy minister for external affairs, then as parliamentary secretary to Nehru 1955-59, continuing on as the Deputy Minister of External Affairs (Nehru was Minister for External affairs). She held the foreign affairs portfolio during the Chinese invasion and worked closely with Nehru to promote the concept of Panchsheel and the Non-Aligned Movement. Lakshmi was also involved in handling the American VOA installation issue and the problems which cropped up. In recognition of her services, the nation awarded her the Padma Bhushan in 1957, the second Keralite after Vallathol and one year before KPS Menon.

Nehru’s cabinet and working team was crowded with a number of Malayali’s and many of them are well known and much talked about. KM Panikkar, KK Chettur, VP Menon, KPS Menon, VK Krishna Menon, ACN Nambiar, NR Pillai, N Raghavan, MK Vellodi, TN Sheshan, A K Damodaran, KR Narayanan, Thomas Abraham (but I shudder adding MO Mathai to this list)... The list goes on and on. But Lakshmi N Menon, who is hardly mentioned, stood out as the lone serving female diplomat from Kerala. Nehru would often joke that the bureaucracy was afflicted with menon-gitis those days, but adding that jokes apart, they were always good at their work. In the periphery there were other women diplomats and politicians from Kerala, such as K Rukmini Menon, Ammu Swaminathan, Kuttimalu Amma, Leela Damodara Menon etc…

Following Nehru’s death, she also had a brief stint in LB Shastri's cabinet (though they had some issues when Shastri was inserted between Lakshmi and Nehru as External affairs minister while Nehru was sick) but left Delhi after Indira Gandhi took over, retiring to Trivandrum. Her stay at Delhi and as the president of AIWC (All India Women’s conference) is well remembered by all her peers and many recorded their memories, affection and immense gratitude in one of the AIWC souvenir publications.


It was in 1955 that Lakshmi Menon who had all this time been working for AIWC became its president. When reading about anecdotes written about her by her AIWC colleagues in the small booklet issued after her death, one would not miss the paragraph written by Lakshmi Raghu Ramaiah where she mentions how furious Lakshmi was during an excursion, when the men sat in one car and the wives sat in another car while setting out for a trip to see the Hampi ruins, tartly remarking that these were not the Ramayana days for such divisions.

She is often remembered as a great cook who took pains to cook special dishes with her own hands even in the middle of her busy schedules and when somebody visited her, and everybody noticed her humility- for example many remembered that even as a powerful minister with close association to Nehru, she would clear her own baggage at an airport and roll it out in a trolley herself. She was also remembered for her love for Bengali food and her promotion of simple Malayali cooking.

Another interesting anecdote is around Rajaji’s visit to Patna to speak at the university. He was met by Dr Nandan Menon, (Lakshmi’s husband) the vice chancellor at the airport, who was introduced by another local minister to Rajaji as the husband of Lakshmi Menon. Apparently Rajaji was annoyed at hearing this and in typical fashion he retorted that in Delhi, Lakshmi Menon was known as Mrs Nandan Menon. This of course went badly with the university students who demonstrated when he tried to speak at the senate hall.

At the UN
She is remembered as a tall woman with an infectious smile. She wore white khadi sarees all right, but when she went abroad it was a silk saree, as can be seen in the White House photo with Kennedy, (perhaps it was khadi silk). She would always look directly at the person she talked to and Leela Damodara Menon recalls an instance when Leela introduced herself as Mrs KA Damodara Menon (Menon incidentally was known to Lakshmi and was related to her). Lakshmi just smiled and asked her ‘But what is your name’? She was not a thunderous orator according to her peers, but logically clear in eloquence. Lakshmi was a voracious reader and a versatile writer. Her published articles are treasures, and if some of you ever get a chance to read them, as I have had, take the opportunity.

She always brought on new ladies into positions of power, though never mastering Hindi even after years in Delhi. Her dream was to see all Indian women literate by 2000 AD. Many narrate visiting her at her home at 13 Ashoka Rd., eating her home cooked food and recall the story of the establishment of the AIWC headquarters and the purchase of the building from the tough seller, after encashing her husband’s provident fund certificates (read the referenced Hindu article for the full story). People say she was a tough task master, a perfectionist, humorous, and never a ‘party faithful’ toeing any dictum. She always sent hand written replies, and never depended on a stenographer. All her friends refer to her as Didi, akka, kuttiedathi, amma or my friend, a true testament to a likeable and affectionate soul. As a minister, she did weekly AIR broadcasts on world affairs. Ask yourself, which minister does that today?

Another cause she campaigned for was prohibition, after seeing the many woes in Travancore. She was the Vice President of All India Prohibition Council along with Morarji Desai. She later took up addiction issues, and in 1988, along with A. P. Udayabhanu and Johnson J. E, established the Alcohol & Drug Information Centre (ADIC) and served as its President till her death. She also served as President of the All India Committee for the Eradication of Illiteracy among Women and also the Kasturba Gandhi Trust, New Delhi. After retirement from Delhi politics, she took to social work and writing, penning a book on Indian women. She helped found the Federation of University Women in India, and was behind the concept of Mother’s Day in India, appreciating the work of women at their homes.
With Mme Soong Chin Ling and BC Roy
She was also involved in setting up ISRO in her home state of Kerala. "On January 21, 1963, Lakshmi N. Menon, a Minister of State in Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru’s Cabinet, replying on his behalf to a question in Parliament, announced that India would be locating its first rocket-launching facility at Thumba, a fishing village close to Trivandrum."

Once she put up this poignant question while at Bombay - How can Bombay the most affluent city sleep with a conscience having Dharavi, such a slum, in its middle?

Nandan Menon
Vadakke Kurupath Nandan Menon, Esq., B.A. (Hons.) (Mad.), M.A. (Oxon.) her husband, was a luminary himself. He served as a professor in various universities and was Vice Chancellor of Kerala and Patna universities. Short-statured compared to the tall Lakshmi, they made an interesting and wonderful couple. During the late 60’s Prof Nandan Menon spent some time at Honolulu, duly superannuated after his tenure at the IIPA, to the institute of advanced projects.

Lakshmi lost her partner and husband in 1974 and had no children, perhaps resulting from issues over an early miscarriage. Towards the end she got a bit depressed seeing the decline in true voluntarism and the demand of volunteers for compensation and positions, she even suggested that the election commission get rid of symbols on ballot papers forcing the illiterate to at least learn enough to read names.

Later in her life she was prone to falls and after one such fall in 1994, she had fractured her femur and got hospitalized. In fact her last appearance was when aged 95 to felicitate Election commissioner TN Sheshan with a Ponnada (gold brocaded shawl) at Trivandrum. Shortly thereafter, she had a fall in her bathroom. Complications arose during confinement at the hospital, she picked up a chest infection and succumbed to it. Perhaps it was time…..

Her house ‘Plain view’ located in the heart of Trivandrum was donated to the Sharada mission after her death. She also donated her late husband Prof. V. K. Nandan Menon's collection of over 4,000 books to the Trivandrum Public Library.

Until the end of her time, she had but one question and that was her main driver – why should women be denied things which are easily available to men?????

All I can do in conclusion is to reiterate what one colleague mentioned - that she belonged to the vanishing breed, the last among stalwarts. Sometimes I wish I could listen to her speech and read her handwriting, and I will always remember her fondly, a person I got to know from reading many volumes and books covering the Nehru years.

That was Lakshmi Menon, yet another giant from the past, on whose shoulders we stand….

References
Profiles of Lakshmi Menon – AIWC publication 30-11-1995
Women pioneers in India’s renaissance – Ed Sushila Nayar, Kamala Manekar
Learning from Life – Dharni P Sinha

NB – It is said that Lakshmi Menon is one of the signatories of the constitution of India document, an 80,000 word document (signed by all 284 members of the constituent assembly) which you can see in Delhi. However I am not so sure about that since she was elected into the Rajya Sabha only in 1952. Perhaps she signed one of the later amendments.

The Indian Constitution incidentally is the longest-written constitution that any sovereign country has. It has 448 articles, 12 schedules and over 100 amendments. It took the members of the Constituent Assembly two years, 11 months, and 17 days to draft the Constitution for Independent India. The original document of the Constitution of India which was hand drafted in both Hindi and English language, contained approximately 80,000 words.  The Constitution was signed by 284 members of the Constituent Assembly two days before it came into effect on 26th Jan 1950.

Pics
White house pics - Robert Knudsen, Abbie Rowe. White House Photographs. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston, AIWC souvenir

Adding an excerpt from one of J Devika’s brilliant and incisive articles, linked here

Writing to C.W.E. Cotton, Agent to the Governor of Madras in response to his inquiries regarding a certain Lakshmikutty Amma from Tiruvitamkoor, M. E. Watts, the Dewan of Tiruvitamkoor remarked:  “This clever young Nair lady has got on by her own efforts. She is headstrong, mannish and full of the perfervid spirit that espouses lost causes”. The young lady in question was the daughter of a retired senior official in the Tiruvitamkoor Education Department, and had taught at Queen Mary’s College, Madras, before she proceeded on leave to London for studies in 1926. There she is said to have completed studies in a year and then set off all by herself on a tour of Europe, with the help of friends, she claimed. Watts observed that Lakshmikutty had made friends with K. M. Panikkar and the “Strickland crowd”, and her antecedents made her rather suspect. Watts had been informed that early in the 1920s, as a schoolteacher in Thiruvananthapuram, she was deeply interested in Gandhi and non-cooperation, and even tried to popularise these subjects among her pupils. He, however, remarked that now she was on her way back to Thiruvananthapuram, the best place to cool her ardour.

Ref - E. Watts to C.W.E. Cotton, 13 January 1928, 317/ 877,Bundle No. 18, Confidential Files, Tiruvitamkoor, Kerala State Archives. The young lady in question did not cool her heels, really. She became well known later as Lakshmi N. Menon, Parliament Secretary to the Prime Minister of India from 1952-57, and Minister in the Foreign Affairs Department from 1957-66.


Some time ago, my pageviews crossed the million mark (this is after the google-stats came in, I had another counter whose stats I lost, midway). My heartfelt thanks to all the readers, those who came with a purpose and also those who stumbled by. Some continued on, some stuck to reading what they liked and some became my good friends.

I thank you from the bottom of my heart….
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Riding the Back Beauty

Those steamy, smoky and sooty days

Sometimes I sit back and think of some of those jolly train rides in the Indian railways. I have always liked them, and even though I could opine like most others that it is desirable that those trains be cleaner, punctual and efficient, they still cast a spell on you, from all the way back to the period when the role of the elephant was usurped by this mechanical beast. Today people are richer, are on their own, zipping through in their cars and bikes and planes, but it was not so long ago that a ride in the train was any day better and safer than on the fully laden Ambassador careening through our potholed roads. Or if you were on two wheels, consider the scene where you are perilously perched at an angle on a rickety ‘hand me down’ Bajaj scooter or hunched over, helmetless, on a roaring Jawa motorbike zigzagging through a mass of humanity and a collection of beasts on their two feet. Yeah! The train ride is in comparison so serene, and a great opportunity to study a cross section of humanity.

All that will soon be long forgotten, and I saw that India had just signed up for a Japanese designed bullet train between Ahmedabad and Bombay (I still prefer to term Bombay as Bombay, not Mumbai and Madras as Madras, not Chennai). I might, at least in my thoughts, still prefer the overnight Baroda express from Bombay Central, but then, I can still recall the steam engines from my childhood, till it was taken over by the trustworthy diesel and broad gauge as I entered high school. By the time I was ready for college, electric trains were becoming the norm. Meter gauge travel and steam engines were already considered dated, and conversions to the American gauge were well underway in the remote routes.

Of recent I have been perusing many interesting books like the ones written by Thoreax and Atiken. Vaidyanathan’s book is already in my collection and Venkatraman’s just at hand. The loud whistle, the whoosh of the cylinders letting steam and the boiler belching out dense coal-smoke in bursts as the engine strained to move forward…and the journeys that evoked romance and freedom in the past, only serve to spark nostalgic memories in most of the people today – Can you beat it?

We are a country of disparities and this is a classic one where a metric system, based on a meter width, the meter gauge was converted country wide to the older foot based system called the Indian broad gauge, where the gauge width is 5’ and 6” or 1.676mts. Ever wondered why? In America, we have this in Texas and San Francisco and is popularly known as Texas gauge.

How did it come about?  At first around 1849, the railways in India were to be built on a four feet, eight and half inches gauge. Lord Dalhousie favored a 6 ft gauge while Simms, the consulting engineer favored the five feet and six inches gauge. The five and half feet gauge argument won and the first train which ran from Bombay to Thane used this so called broad gauge. The main technical reasoning was that this could provide greater stability during high winds and unpredictable weather, while also ensuring greater space between the wheels for bigger inside cylinders (older engine design). This continued for 12 years.

Lord Mayo the viceroy (following on the ideas of his predecessor Sir John Lawrence), however was a great enthusiast of the metric system and proceeded on that track. Of course we had some other widths too in India like the narrow gauge (hilly tracks) and the standard gauge (various metros). But in general India today is moving wider with the Unigauge project.

The advent of the railway in India did not take too much time actually, for it was in February 1804 that Richard Trevithick ran the world's first steam engine successfully on rails. The first goods train ran in 1825 and the one with passengers in 1830, in Britain. While there were some private fright lines in India as early as 1851, the first train ran in November 18, 1852, between Bombay and Thane. The commercial run took place on April 16, 1853, a Saturday, at 3:35 pm between Boree Bunder and Thane, traversing a distance just over 20 miles. The train, hauled by three engines -- Sindh, Sahib and Sultan -- carried as many as 400 passengers in its 14 coaches on its debut run. I had covered all this in an earlier article 

While early steam locomotives were made in Britain, after the Second World War, a number of engines were imported from America and Canada. The WP 4-6-2 locomotive drew heavily from the experience drawn from the straightforward American/Canadian design of locomotives used during the war and was later built locally, totaling to some 755 units. The WPs hauled the most important mail trains in the post war era well into the early eighties chugging up to a speed of 120 kilometers per hour. Many of us would remember these from their unique whistle and the bullet shaped nose (smokebox cover). That was the original bullet train, the black beauty!!

As the risk of boring you over all these arcane technical details is pretty high, I will not get onto the stories of wood fired engines, diesels, electric and so on…Soon everybody will be talking about the bullet train anyway. But I will now get into some fun stuff (which a few railway men might remember) and take you into the days when the railway station was an architectural delight, when railway stations had bars, and as the traveler relaxed, found time to narrate a few tales, some tall, some short…

It was a time when the common got into the train wearing not his best clothes due to the risk of them becoming black by the time they got off, sweaty and smelly, It was a time when the engine driver had to use the spring of the expansion buffers to get started on a gradient, a time when animals were the risk on the rail and a time when engine drivers were considered demi gods. Do you remember how the bogie bathrooms used to run dry and it was only at an important junction that water was filled from the great looking overhead spigots? Today those are gone and you see hoses being hauled up or water pumped in through the side valves.

How many of you know the real meaning of the words shunting and humping? Well, aside from their sexual overtones, Shunting is not well understood, and if you wanted to know it was the method of moving the train into an alternative course. And what is humping? That was more related to freight train bogie sorting, using a man-made hill or hump. A switch engine gets these bogies or cars to the top of the hump, where the cars are uncoupled one at a time and then pushed down into the right track, to create the right goods train.

OK, now an interesting question. You as a passenger can amble up to the toilet and relive yourself, in a train, though there is some discomfort at times what with the neatness. Did you know that there was no toilet in any of the engines? In the old days the hapless driver had to wait till the train reached a station, then go over to the assistant guard’s compartment right behind the engine where a toilet is available. Or well, they had to use their ingenuity and available resources!  I believe that the situation is being taken care of in new engines and also considering that we have women engine drivers these days!

But engine drivers are known to stop engines if they could get away with it. Such was the case of this driver who stopped his train so he could pick up fish (or something else) from his favorite shop on the way!

How many of you remember the VRR’s and NVRR’s (railway restaurants) in train stations? Each person will have a favorite. For me it was the VRR at Trivandrum, the food there was nothing short of excellent, during the 80’s. But before all that they had some very famous dishes which people remember and try to recreate even today. One such curry is the railway mutton curry with coconut milk, very similar to a Kerala moplah mutton curry with coconut milk. The railway omelet is what went on to become the Indian standard omelet with green chilies, tomatoes and onions and it is said that the longer lasting egg biryani was popularized after the railway packets containing them hit the stations.



Know what - while we did see them in some old steam engines plying the forest routes, the trains in the North always had cattle or cow guards (In America they are also known as pilots). Contrary to what you believe it was not invented for the Indian cow, but for the American cattle which roamed the tracks since the tracks were not fenced off. In the old days, the engine driver would run over cattle but after a few trains derailed, the cow catcher was invented and used for the first time in 1833 in the Camden and Amboy railroad (see that? we have ‘railroads’ in America but ‘railways’ everywhere else!) in their engine named John Bull. There was the Babbage plough type and the Dripps type cow catcher. The well specified cow catcher had to throw a 2,000 pound bull (wow! The measly Indian cow would weigh only a quarter of that!) a distance of 30 feet. Older catchers were made of wood but later substituted in iron. Though this heavy (half a ton) appendage weakened the engine, it was used often and continued till owners of cattle wised up or the cattle developed a better sense of avoiding the speeding iron animal.

I cannot help but quote this classic description by Victor Bayley of the usefulness of the cowcatcher- The slow-moving mind of a cow is quite unable to grasp the rapid movement of a train. Its bovine eyes stare uncomprehending at the smoke-spouting object that darts out from a neighboring cutting. In a moment all is over, the cow-catcher has flung the dead body afar. Many cases have also been reported of the cow catcher saving people who were lying on the rails with suicidal intent. But India is India, for there were reports of little boys and even men riding free on the cow catcher in those early days, out of sight of the engine driver!!

A classic story of the cow catcher being used for a slippery rail situation is recounted by Archibald Spens, dating all the way back to 1914 -We left Simla at one o’clock, reaching Kalka about a quarter to seven. For the greater portion of the time I sat on an improvised seat on the engine thus having an absolutely uninterrupted view of the gorgeous scenery, and enjoying all the manifold sensations of a motor run……We glided down mile after mile, through tunnel after tunnel, from our advanced position as smokeless and eerie as the tube from Piccadilly Circus to Trafalgar Square ; hooted advice to wandering sheep and overcurious cattle; till the descent was relieved from monotony by the engine refusing to drag us uphill to the station aforementioned. She was coaxed, fed and cursed in turn, only to retaliate by vibrating your spine and puffing furiously. At last, acknowledging defeat, a coal-black gentleman descended from the tender, climbed down on to the cow-catcher, tied a bucket of sand to a coupling, wound one hand round a stanchion and with the other sprinkled the contents of the pail on to the slippery line. This merely appeared to over-infuriate the mechanical lady, who shook herself into a perfect spasm of rage, until another member of the railway community joined his colleague on the cow-catcher, when both, with fingers all but touching the rails, poured handful after handful of sand upon the wheels and metals. And this, mark you, when we were vibrating with the force of a printing press in Fleet Street. Grunting and ill-humoured, she at last condescended to proceed, while a stoker opened the furnace, heaved shovelfuls of coal into the roaring flames and slammed back the door by jerking a long steel chain connected at the upper end with a cooler portion of her anatomy. And so we started off again, covering mile after mile in giddy crescents and circles and shivering gyrations, till approaching dusk and lowered temperature advised me to return to my toy carriage, soon thereafter to arrive at Kalka, and, later, Umballa, after a perfectly charming trip into the very heart of the Himalayas.

Time to leave the cows and the cowcatchers in peace….Let’s move on and I will not talk too much about tiger proofed windows, for that can be easily understood as a need in the North Eastern terrains…

There was a time when the first class compartment looked different – those early days when the palanquin and coolie, the bullock-cart and pony-post have long been numbered. William Sloane Kennedy explains - As a matter of course the cars are well ventilated, and the conductors rejoice in white jackets and tall pith helmets. On the long trunk lines, such as that between Calcutta and Madras, the first-class cars, which are the only ones that well to-do foreigners ever travel in, are so made that they can be converted into sleeping cars. Each car contains two compartments, and each compartment has a cushioned settee down either side, with a third crosswise along one end; the other end is occupied by a washing closet with shower-bath. Gentlemen always carry with them a counterpane padded with wool, and a small pillow or two. At night the settee is converted into a sleeping berth by the aid of the counterpane and pillows.

Now to the train whistle…So many mimicry artistes still remember that sound of the WP steam whistle, so distinguished, compared to the bleat we hear these days from the electric and diesel engines, so out of character. But did you know that there are formal codes used when the whistle is blown?

For example (see here for details)

3 short toots while running - Guard to apply brakes
4 short toots while running - Train cannot proceed on account of accident, failure or other cause
1 long toot on the run - Acknowledgement of guards signal
1 super long toot while on the run - Approaching level crossing or tunnel area
1 long, 1 short, 1 long, 1 short - Alarm chain pulled

And then again did you know there was something called MST or Madras standard time which was used by all of the Indian railways? IRFCA explains that Madras Time was a time zone established in 1802 by John Goldingham, the first official astronomer of the British East India Company in India when he determined the longitude of Madras as 5 hours, 21 minutes and 14 seconds ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. In the very early days of railways in India, local time was observed at each large city, in common with practice in most other countries at the time. Bombay and Poona, for instance, had their own local times differing by about 7 minutes. There were anomalies too, such as Ahmedabad which strangely observed Madras local time. Madras Time was, by 1905, effectively used for railway timetables over the whole subcontinent, across Lahore, Bombay, Calcutta, and Madras. Timetables for Bombay trains usually had the local times for trains printed alongside the Madras Time schedule, and trains arrived and departed according to the Madras Time schedule. Various stations remained synchronized through a 4PM telegraph signal until 1925 when new techniques came into vogue.

Nevertheless, just imagine, before IST came into being, a district administrator in British India had to deal with railway time, telegraph time, office time, cutcherry time, bazaar time and church time, all in the same locale!

There were incessant problems in adopting it, as the officials (RD Oldham GSI) explain - A more potent cause of resistance to the general adoption of the present standard time lies in the fact that it is Madras time. The citizen of Bombay, proud of being ‘primus in Indis ’ and of Calcutta, equally proud of his city being the Capital of India, and—for a part of the year— the Seat of the Supreme Government, alike look down on Madras, and refuse to change the time they are using, for that of what they regard as a benighted Presidency; while Madras, having for long given the standard time to the rest of India, would resist the adoption of any other Indian standard in its place.

The story of book stalls and pocket books in the railways is intimately connected to Higginbothams and AH Wheeler, and a time when they ruled the roost doling out newspapers and pocket books such as James Bond, James Hadley Chase, Nick Carter, Perry Mason and Enid Blyton!! They were just the kind of books to read, when you are all by yourself on the upper berth.

And there are railway stories, going all the way back to Ruskin Bond and Kipling. More recently, Bill Aitken relates the charming story where the colonial Saab snaps out an order in Hindi for ‘toast and marmalade’ to the turbaned railway waiter who vigorously nods, turns on his heels and arrives back through the gauze grilled doors a little later, with his perpetually large eyes and beaming face, carrying a cold greasy plate and with the announcement ‘toast and armlate’, which he gleefully plonks in front of the horrified saahib!!Oh, there are so many railway stories to tell, there has been an instance when a major railway scam ran its course, with 70 lakhs collected ‘to paint a section of rails’!

Many an English usage came from the railways such as ‘Full steam ahead’, ‘on the track’ and ‘drop the lot’. Remember the cockup story from Britain? Quoting Glen Hopkins - Class 150 multiple units in use in the UK have isolating cocks for doors and suspensions, located under the passenger seats in the saloon. On one occasion a driver, having suffered a burst air suspension bellows, asked a lady passenger, sitting on the seat in question, to open her legs, whilst he got to his cock! Then there was the railway stores guy who sent out a 100 soup plates because he had no ‘fish plates’ in stock, and there was the railway man who said to the hunter – when you were hunting and shooting, I was shunting and hooting!!

But some things happen only in India like the time when porters used monkeys, perhaps following the lead from a Ramayana retelling. Recently, the railway police in Calcutta arrested 25 porters and 28 monkeys after breaking up a train seat reservation scam. The officials explained that porters at Calcutta’s Howrah station had trained monkeys to jump through the windows of long-distance trains and plonk themselves down in any available seat. Passengers then had to pay the porters to have the monkeys removed. Initially porters occupied the seats and then sold the space themselves. Noww this was not legal, and when the porters were harried by the police for the wrongdoings, they resorted to this novel method!!

Time to wind up. It is sad that the children of today with their heads stuck into their Ipads will never hear the WP’s whistle, or recall sights of the engine driver with his kerchiefed head sticking out, the grimy fireman shoveling coal into the boiler or the glum looking guard riding alone in the last compartment, or the little coal breaker hunched over the pile of coals. And they will never experience the railway quarters and those lovely Anglo Indian families, especially the pretty damsels and their beaus on java mobikes….…Ah! Those were some days!!!

I cannot resist quoting this classic observation by Aitken – The journey back from Kerala was one of the most delightful train passages I can remember, with charming company, intelligent conversation and exchanges of genuine regard. But the moment we hit the Devanagari script, of N India, the cultural buoyancy of the south dipped and became progressively more submerged. As we neared Delhi, the compartment became crowded with interlopers, loud and nasally aggressive to prove that Hindi at least on the score of noise can claim to be one of the leading languages in the world. From being a spotlessly clean compartment, the litter and mess of Aryan culture soon asserted itself. The conductor had made himself scarce and the level of verbal abuse rose. Better dressed, better educated but pigmented to no advantage, the Kerala Company went into its shell.

Bravo, Bill…well said!!!

The ride is done with, the whistle still blows in your head, the steam whooshes through your ears as the wind rustles your hair, the bones ache after sleeping on the wooden sleepers, the fan took so many prods and spins with your comb to keep running, you keep one mudka (disposable tea cup made of mud) as keepsake in your luggage and you look like Oliver Twist after a chimney sweep, grime stuck all over, smelling of soot and looking bewildered… you are at the end of your journey, but that it was , a jolly good ride…

References
Exploring Indian railways - Bill Aitken
A trainload of Indian Jokes – KR Vaidyanathan
Indian Railway Stories -Ruskin Bond
The complete story of Indian Railways - Rajendra Aklekar (dnaindia-2013)
The WP's steam run for those who have no idea what I am talking about...

For those interested in trains and train paintings, look no further and visit Kishore Partim Biswas's site. They are just wonderful....He also conducts exhibitions in various cities....

pics - from Google images, wikipedia - thanks to all uploaders


Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a happy new year......
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The Sitar in Norwegian Wood

George Harrison and the sitar, the Beatles

Beatles remain a favorite of mine and I have always liked the perky number Norwegian Wood. The opening chords stayed stuck in my memory and the other day I was wondering about how this instrument got used for the song, assuming naturally that it followed from the much talked about visit of the Beatles to Rishikesh and George’s training sessions with Ravi Shankar.  As I started checking it out, I found that the song predated their visit to India and that it had an interesting story behind it. So for those who like the song and the Beatles, here goes…

1964, The Beatles had a great tour in America, George Harrison the lead guitarist characterized it ‘every bit a knock-out’ and it was a time when they met equals like Elvis Presley and Bob Dylan. Beatlemania spread in America and a second tour was announced for 1965. The last two shows at the Hollywood bowl were smash hits.

Just before they crossed the Atlantic once again, they finished shooting for their second movie tilted Help! It was a kind of comedy film with a crass Indian tilt, replete with multiple armed goddesses and Swamis played by non-Indians. The synopsis reads - An eastern cult (a parody of the Thuggee cult) is about to sacrifice a woman to the goddess Kaili. Just as she is about to be killed, the high priestess of the cult, Ahme, notices that she is not wearing the sacrificial ring. Ringo Starr, drummer of the Beatles, has and is wearing it; it was secretly sent to him by the victim in a fan letter. Determined to retrieve the ring and sacrifice the woman, the great Swami Clang, Ahme, and several cult members including Bhuta, leave for London. After several failed attempts to steal the ring, they confront the Beatles in an Indian restaurant. Ringo learns that if he does not return the ring soon, he will become the next sacrifice. Ringo then discovers that the ring is stuck on his finger.

On April 5th and 6th, The Beatles filmed the Rajahama Indian restaurant scenes for Help! at Twickenham Film Studios. The interior kitchen and dining scenes were filmed on a purpose-built set. What is relevant in this context is the Indian restaurant, where they had Indian looking waiters, people standing on their head and all kinds of silly stuff. The restaurant also had a live Indian band playing Indian instruments such as the tabla and sitar and the song ‘A Hard Day's Night’ is played by them as an instrumental. George Harrison watching the filming, was intrigued by the Sitar played by this Indian performer and took the opportunity to check it out, its sound and balance.

Harrison explains - We were waiting to shoot the scene in the restaurant when the guy gets thrown in the soup and there were a few Indian musicians playing in the background. I remember picking up the sitar and trying to hold it and thinking, 'This is a funny sound.' It was an incidental thing, but somewhere down the line I began to hear Ravi Shankar's name. The third time I heard it, I thought, 'This is an odd coincidence.' And then I talked with David Crosby of The Byrds and he mentioned the name. I went and bought a Ravi record; I put it on and it hit a certain spot in me that I can't explain, but it seemed very familiar to me. The only way I could describe it was: my intellect didn't know what was going on and yet this other part of me identified with it.

And so it was around that time that I bought a cheap Sitar from a shop called India Craft in London and it was lying around, I hadn’t really figured out what to do with it.

The Beatles did not particularly enjoy the filming of the movie (despite the fact that they were high on pot, for Ringo says - A hell of a lot of pot was being smoked while we were making the film. It was great. That helped make it a lot of fun), nor were they pleased with the end product and later in 1970, John Lennon said they had felt like extras in their own movie. Shooting was completed in April and the movie premiered in June 1965.

Actually it was 5 months later that he purchased the sitar and it took another month before he did something with it. It would take yet another before he used it for a song.

The second tour to America in Aug 1965 was also a hit and they returned to Britain a million dollars richer and had six weeks to rest and recuperate. Harrison decided to goof around with his Gibson J-160E guitar by moving its pickup from the neck to the bridge, for he wanted a new sound. Their next LP had to be released before Christmas and so they met again at Abbey road in Oct. to work on a project titled Rubber Soul. After the first song ‘Run for your life’ was recorded, the group started working on Norwegian Wood (This bird has flown).

The concept for the song came from Lennon, who wanted to include a comedy song in the LP, touching the topic of a one night stand experience of his. The real meaning is still being debated and both Lennon and others have professed different meanings and attributes, but it is an intriguing song. 

The lyrics go thus

I once had a girl, or should I say, she once had me...
She showed me her room, isn't it good, Norwegian wood?
She asked me to stay and she told me to sit anywhere,
So I looked around and I noticed there wasn't a chair.
I sat on a rug, biding my time, drinking her wine
We talked until two and then she said, "It's time for bed"
She told me she worked in the morning and started to laugh.
I told her I didn't and crawled off to sleep in the bath
And when I awoke, I was alone, this bird had flown
So I lit a fire, isn't it good, Norwegian wood.

As it appears, Lennon meets somebody (purportedly Sonny or Maureen) starts out a one night stand with her (or maybe not, he got miffed when she started to laugh and say she had to go to work in the morning), and went to sleep in the tub, to wake up in the morning and see that the girl had gone away. The bird is a girl, the Norwegian wood supposedly low cost paneling (has also other subtle meanings) and McCartney mentions that he was the one who suggested Lennon imply that he wanted set fire to the room as he left, not just lighting a fire for warmth. It is anyway, one of those unfinished and surreal ballads.

The rehearsals did not quite gel, and Harrison felt it needed something extra. The usual arrangement of two guitars, bass and drums did not give the right feel to this gobbledygook of a song.
He explains – It was quite spontaneous. I just picked up the sitar and kind of found the notes and I just kind of played it. We miked it up and put it on and it seemed to hit the spot. That was how the overdub on Lennon’s guitar riff after 9 days of hard effort made this song so unique with its nasal twang. Harrison had the sitar tuned to western notes.

The structure changed to 4 bars each of A, B and A on Lennon’s guitar followed by Harrison repeating the same on the sitar. It is explained thus – When the listener first hears the AB and then hears the second A, he expects a B to follow but instead this jumps to a third A, creating the complex ABA sequence followed up with the unprecedented sitar routine. After the instrumental opening, the song goes back to the BA chords.

But there is more detail to all this. In fact even though many people mention that this is the first time a Sitar was used for pop music, there is some error in the statement. Though it was the first time it was released in a recording, it was previously used by other musicians, namely Shawn Phillips and Donovan. Philips worked with the sitar as early as 1962 while at Toronto and had heard Ravi Shankar playing there. He was soon hooked to the instrument. His first commercial recording was in Dec 1965, two months after the Beatles had completed Norwegian wood. It then took another two years for ‘Sunny South Kensington’ to be officially released. Guitarist Big Jim Sullivan also played the sitar in the early 1960’s, influenced by Vilayat Khan in 1964 and learning the craft from Nazir Jairazbhoy, a music lecturer at OSAS in London. By 1966, there was a good number of rock Sitarists in London and this was to bring about the invention of the electric Sitar. Jimmy Page - Led Zepplin’s guitarist also played the sitar those days.

Then there was Kinks with their ‘See My friends’ recorded before Norwegian wood, while another group working with a sitar was the Yardbrids, recording their album ‘heart full of soul’.  As it went, the Yardbirds manager Gomelsky approached the manager of their local curry house and were recommended an Indian troupe from Kenya. They decided to record these Indian origin musicians but hit all kinds of rough weather. The musicians could not play to the rock beat (timing of 4/4) and a lot of time was wasted. As the studio had a busy schedule, they decided to do away with the two Indian players and asked Jimmy page who was passing by for help. He concocted a manageable track with similar sounding chords using his mastery over the guitar but in passing purchased the sitar from the perplexed Indian, paying GBP25.00, complete with its cloth cover. Later Beck himself figured out a solution with the guitar and by bending the notes slightly off-key, managed to get his guitar track sound like a sitar. The aborted sitar version did come out many years later. "It was very hard to record [the sitar] because it has a lot of nasty peaks and a very complex wave form," said EMI engineer Norman Smith. "My meter would be going right over into the red, into distortion, without us getting audible value for money (but that was likely due to Harrison’s improper playing of the instrument and perhaps due to the wrong location of the pickup, according to Lavezzoli)

Many others started to use the Sitar for pop music compositions and the Coral electric sitar was developed by Danelecto in 1967, though finding few takers. The first one was gifted to Harrison, but he claims that it was hijacked by Spencer Davis.

Bellman explains the lead up - Harrison had recently bought a sitar along with Ravi Shankar’s albums Portrait of Genius and Sound of the Sitar. Harrison’s conversations with David Crosby about Shankar while they were tripping last August had inspired him. Also, when they arrived back to the UK from the States, the Kinks were at No. 10 on the charts with the Indian-influenced “See My Friends.” When the Kinks had toured Australia and Asia at the beginning of the year, they had a stopover in Bombay. Ray Davies said, “I remember getting up, going to the beach and seeing all these fishermen coming along. I heard chanting to start with, and gradually the chanting came a bit closer, and I could see it was fishermen carrying their nets out.”

Ian MacDonald adds - The Kinks’ song had no Indian instruments, but the band’s guitar imitated a tambura while Ray’s vocal whine and drone lent his singing an Indian quality. Author/jazz musician Barry Ernest Fantoni recalled hanging with the Beatles one night when they heard the Kinks’ song. Realizing Davies’ guitar sounded like a sitar, they discussed getting one for their next record

Back to the surreal Norwegian wood and now quoting Damian Fanelli writing at Guitar World   - The
October 12 version of the song, then called simply "This Bird Has Flown," features the sitar in the intro and in the middle eight, as Harrison, sometimes clumsily, mimics Paul McCartney's harmony vocal. Also notable about the October 12 recording is that Ringo Starr is playing drums. Unhappy with the first version, the band attempted the song nine days later, when, on the fourth take, they nailed it. Lennon's acoustic guitar opens the track, and Starr, as he did for "And I Love Her," eschews drums completely, in favor of other percussive instruments, in this case finger cymbals and a tambourine. The first listeners of Norwegian wood equated the sitar sound to a guitar with a cold. As they say, that western tuning and playing in the diatonic scale did it, emphasizing the mark of a genius (as you can see, it matters less what you know than what you do with what you know).

In a Playboy Interview in 1980 Lennon states that the song was completely his and was suitably vague because he did not want his wife Cyan to know he was having an affair, and thus undertook a sophisticated attempt at writing Norwegian wood, through a smoke screen. Though he mentions that he does not recall who the woman was, others in the know allude to Sonny Freeman (she did have a wood paneled flat below John’s) while biographer Coleman sates that it was a prominent journalist Maureen Cleave.

Quoting Rolling Stone magazine - Lennon put it bluntly, "I was trying to write about an affair without letting me wife know I was writing about an affair. I was writing from my experiences, girl’s flats, things like that. As McCartney later explained, it was popular for Swinging London girls to decorate their homes with Norwegian pine. "So it was a little parody really on those kinds of girls who when you'd go to their flat there would be a lot of Norwegian wood," he told biographer Barry Miles. "It was pine really, cheap pine. But it's not as good a title, 'Cheap Pine,' baby." Lennon had however admitted to Rolling Stone earlier that "Paul helped with the middle eight, to give credit where it's due." But according to McCartney, Lennon came to him with just a first verse: "That was all he had, no title, no nothing."

Looking back in the 1990s, Harrison described the sitar on "Norwegian Wood" as "very rudimentary. I didn't know how to tune it properly, and it was a very cheap sitar to begin with." But "that was the environment in the band," he pointed out, "everybody was very open to bringing in new ideas. We were listening to all sorts of things, Stockhausen, avant-garde - and most of it made its way onto our records."

There is also the incident of the broken string while Harrison practiced after the Western tuning. It appears that George Martin suggested he contact Ayana Angadi, the co-founder of the Asian Music Circle (AMC). Shankara Angadi, Ayana's son, recalls, "As luck would have it, we did have some sitar strings in the house, and the whole family went down to the studio at Abbey Road and watched them record, from behind the glass."  (Quoting Cepcani – Biographer).

Ravi Shankar had by this time become a well-known exponent of the Sitar, after a stint with dancing together with his brother Uday. He later became an expert with the Sitar and Hindustani after sporadic training by Alaudin Khan, founded the Kinara music school in Bombay and his fame reached Harrison through the American group Byrds.

A report states that Harrison was introduced to Ravi Shankar by David Crosby of the Byrds at a 1965 party - Roger McGuinn, the founder of the Byrds, told the Telegraph how he had introduced the late George Harrison to Ravi Shankar's sitar music at a party at Zsa Zsa Gabor's Bel Air mansion in 1965. They were both on LSD at the time, he said, but the sound inspired Harrison and the Beatles to travel to India where they met Pt Shankar and took sitar lessons from him.

George continues – It (the sitar) just called on me ... a few months elapsed and then I met this guy from the Asian Music Circle organisation who said, 'Oh, Ravi Shankar's gonna come to my house for dinner. Do you want to come too?' That was how they met for the first time in June 1966.

In July 1966 the Beatles made an unscheduled stop over in Delhi and were stranded there for a week (after getting a rough sendoff following a Manila concert - due to not paying their respects to Imelda Marcos at Philippines). So they hung around at the Oberoi, and went to Riki Ram and sons to purchase new sitars and other Indian instruments, to take back to Britain. Harrison fell in love with sitar and India.

Following the group’s last live concert performance at Candlestick Park, San Francisco in August 1966, he travelled to Mumbai to study the sitar with Ravi Shankar.

George states - "I went to India for about six weeks. Ravi would give me lessons, and he’d also have one of his students sit with me. My hips were killing me from sitting on the floor, and so Ravi brought a yoga teacher to start showing me the physical yoga exercises. It was a fantastic time...," Harrison once recalled.

Ravi Shankar says - The down-to-earth quality in George was something I could relate to with such joy. He would crack up when I told him all my jokes; we had such fun! We always competed with each other in punning. When I told him that I was known as a "pundit" because of my punning, he said something hilarious, connecting the old Hindu scriptures of the four Vedas (Rigveda, Samveda, Atharvaveda and Yajurveda). He said: "Do you know the four Wether brothers? They are Ric, Sam, Arthur and George Wethers."

What did the master Ravi Shankar think of Norwegian wood? Shankar in a 1999 NPR ‘Fresh air’ interview with Terry Gross said - I never heard it before. And it was only much later on, my nephew and nieces, they played it for me and I thought it was terrible, in the sense - in the sound that was produced on the sitar. The song was nice. I liked the song very much but it was a peculiar sound. It didn't sound like sitar even. So he had had little lesson from a person in London who's a student of a student of mine, who is to be in London at that time. And I told him frankly that it's fine. People like it and you are happy but I didn't find it interesting enough because the very sound of sitar, it is something which we have developed since last 750 years. And - but I - he understood and that's why he wanted to learn.

George Harrison continued to be fascinated by India for the rest of his life, became a Hindu and remained good friends with Ravi Shankar, often collaborating with him musically. Later in 1968 the Beatles went to Rishikesh, spent time with the Mahesh Yogi learning meditation and so on but left after (getting bored or disgusted at the Yogi’s materialism?) and following a spat involving their use of hard drugs coupled with the Guru’s supposed act of impropriety with Mia Farrow.
Later on, many other Beatles songs were to feature Indian instruments and other Indian embellishments.

And that was how the Beatles ended up lapping up much of the credit with using a Sitar, eclipsing the works of Kinks and Yardbirds. But that does not really matter, does it? And, if you were to ask who was first to take Hindustani music and the sitar out west, look at my article on the femme fatale Mata Hari – It was Inayat Khan, the father of the princess spy Madeline – Noor Inayat khan. But Carnatic music had reached Europe even earlier, see my article on the Bayaderes who traveled west in 1838

And as I conclude, I wonder how many of the people I research individually, go on and get connected somehow or the other. As they say, a small world indeed…

References
Beatles Gear:  By Andy Babiuk, Mark Levisohn, Tony Bacon, The Beatles
The dawn of Indian music in the West – Peter Lavezzoli
Strange Sounds: Offbeat Instruments and Sonic Experiments in Pop - Mark Brend
The Songs of John Lennon: The Beatles Years - John Lennon
John Lennon: The Life - Philip Norman
Revolution in the Head: The Beatles’ Records and the Sixties Ian MacDonald
The Exotic in Western Music - Jonathan Bellman
Long and Winding Roads: The Evolving Artistry of the Beatles - Kenneth Womack
Paul McCartney: Many Years from Now - Barry Miles
If you want to read all those interesting takes on what could have happened in the room, read this

pics - google images - thanks to all the uploaders....

Other tidbits
Bob Dylan is supposed to have made a dig at Norwegian wood with his ‘4th time around’ which his fans state was made after Dylan thought Lennon had copied his writing style.

It is probable, listening to Ravi Shankar’s comments, that Harrison got his first sitar lesson from that grand disciple of Ravi Shankar who was performing for the AMC guys in the Help! Film. That person’s identity is alas not known!

Annu Malik’s Tumko sirf tumko- from Kuch Khatti Kuch Meethi was inspired by 'Norwegian Wood'
Dil Se Kya Sahi (Imaan) - In this R.D. Burman song, the line “Aaj Jhoomen Zara…” is an adaptation of the line “I Once Had A Girl…” from Norwegian Wood. Humne Kabhi Socha Nahi (Jeevan Mukti, 1977) is another adaptation.

That the movie Help! helped swing the Beatles towards mystic India is shown by another incident. While filming an outdoor scene on bicycles one day, the Beatles stopped for a short break. A Krishna devotee walked up to each Beatle and handed them a book on Hatha yoga. This was perhaps a precursor to their Maharishi Mahesh Yogi trip to Rishikesh.

Indian Music – How did an Englishman get so hung up an Indian music? When asked in a Detroit free press interview in 1966, George said

"A whole lot of things got me interested," he said. "The more I heard it, the more I liked it. It's very involved music. So involved. That's why the average listener doesn't understand. They listen to Western music all their lives. Eastern music is a different concept. "The main hang-up for me is Indian classical music. Really groovy, to pardon the expression, as opposed to the hip things in Western music which are opposed to Western classical music... Indian music is hip, yet 8,000 years old. "I find it hard to get much of a kick out of Western music. Even out of Western music I used to be interested in a year ago. Most music is still only surface, not very subtle compared to Indian music... Music in general, us included, is still on the surface."


"On 'Norwegian Wood' on the Rubber Soul album I used the sitar like a guitar. On the new album I developed it a little bit. But I'm far from the goal I want to achieve. It will take me 40 years to get there. I'd like to be able to play Indian music as Indian music instead of using Indian music in pop... It takes years of studying, but I'm willing to do that."
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