And how Annie hall
road got its name
Annie hall road – why was it called so? During my College
days, Balan’s book lending library used to be situated on that road. My friend
Venu used to go there often, me not so often, but I used to borrow books from
Venu and read them at College. Most would have thought it was a name given to
the road by the British and some of the older folk would have connected to
Annie Besant. As I spent a while thinking about that memory flash from the
past, I decided to delve deeper and check up on Annie Besant’s stay in Calicut.
That was how I got sidetracked into studying Manjeri Rama Iyer, yet another
doyen of yesteryears who was widely ignored in the annals of history barring a
few mentions, mainly because he supported and promoted the aspirations of lower
castes of Malabar. In fact there is not even a biography written about him to
date while lesser mortals have voluminous books written detailing their smaller
claims to fame. And then again, I also recalled my earlier promise to cover this
illustrious person soon, so got on to the task in right earnest.
To meet him, you would have to go to the Calicut of the 1900-1950
time frame. I tried to recreate the feel and flavor for the place in my mind, from
mentions my father and various relatives made, by reading sections of a
poignant autobiography by an interesting soul named AR Subramaniam and from recalling
Pottekat’s books. As they say in Hindi – who bhi ek zamana tha, or as shall we say,
athum oru kalam ayirunnu. And as you will find, Ramaier was not just a freedom
fighter fighting for Indian freedom from the British, but was above all one who
helped large masses of people in Malabar and Kerala obtain freedom from the
many social evils of that time.
Yes, in the 50’s, Crown Theater existed but was owned by
Cherukandan Maistry who also owned a hospital on Annie Hall road. That was the time
when rikshawas and jutkas plied the various streets and Kallai road which was
broader and busier intersecting Annie hall road had shops and vegetarian hotels
which many remember, punctuated by the strident horns of a rare car that passed
by or the tinkle of a cycle bell pedaled by an industrious peddler. Sometimes
you could see a koya with his striped lungi pass by dragging his filaria
afflicted leg or an Ithatha with her head demurely covered, quickly flitting by
with her wares. Nair’s with dhothis and an ever present towel over their
shoulders, clerks with shirts on, and Menon’s with a turban could also be seen
often. It was just another day in that town which once upon a time was the
cynosure of the medieval world’s eyes, the capital of the spice industry and a bustling
entrepot. After the multitude of wars which decimated its treasuries and hastened
the decline of the Zamorin’s the town was just a sleepy and muggy place, where
the British could no longer be seen, barring an odd sayip like Bolland or
Thorne or Evans. Imagine, this was where it all started, the colonial sagas of
the Portuguese and the English.
But in the 20’s, life was changing and people led by the
leaders in the North were clamoring for home rule and self-governance. Local
leaders were being talked about and one of them lived in the very location we
are at, the Annie hall road. Days passed to months and years, they all fought
their wars and private and personal demons, they all strived for change and in
1947 India finally became independent.
Fast forward to the 1950’s - Houses on Annie Hall road were
mostly built on a higher elevation from the street, and if one were to look
down, you will see what ARS Iyer saw and wrote about. He says ‘Annie Hall
Road where our home Janaki Vilas stood was also home to a famous son of Calicut
and his residence was less than 100 yards from our home. He was Manjeri Rama
Iyer, lawyer, social worker and founder of the Theosophical Society in Calicut……
I have often watched the venerable old man walking on the Road clad in the
skimpiest of clothes past our home picking up or pushing with his walking stick
garbage on the road, a routine gesture of keeping the environment clean.’
Many of the landmarks of today existed, like the SM street, Radha
theatre and Parsi temple, and people as we see even today, hung around at the
Mananchira maidanam. What we miss are the news hawkers that Pottekat used to
write about, the man shouting at the top of his voice that day’s important news
- the one who was selling the Mathrubhoomi – those days the daily evening
newspaper. The Anjaneya Vilas Brahmins and Modern Hindu Hotel are gone, but the
public library existed in the corner and still does. Hawkers were selling and
yelling about all kinds of things and well, like in London’s Hyde park, there
were people also exhorting about religion and politics in that very corner where
Pottekat’s statue now stands serenely looking on into the street which he so
beautifully described in Oru theruvinte katha. That was also the time (this was earlier - Pre-40's) when
there was no electricity distribution and one left the locale before it became
too dark. There were lamp posts with kerosene lamps, and the fascinating
chapter by ARS Iyer explains – “In those days the lanes and bye
lanes were not lit well after dark and we normally make it home before it gets
too dark. The lanes which we normally take as short cuts to reach home were
dotted with lamp posts with only kerosene lamps encased in a glass container as
electric street lights were a rarity in those days. A municipal worker carrying
a tin of kerosene, a few wicks and a cleaning cloth and a ladder on his shoulders
would stop at each of these posts to fill in kerosene in the lamps, change the
wick if necessary and wipe clean the glass case of the lamp. He would lit the
lamp by sun set every evening which would burn throughout the night giving
light to people to walk safely. I have often watched these men at work
fascinated by the clockwork regularity with which they provide the lights to
the common man.”
You may wonder why I mention these things instead of talking
about the person we set about to rediscover, Mr Manjeri Ramaier (that was how
he spelled his name, not Rama Iyer). We will, worry not - but you see, to
experience something properly, you have to be mentally there, you have to
understand the ‘mahol’ and if it is Calicut - my dear little city, well I will
use some extra literary license in describing it at least for my sake, if not
for the uninterested. So now that was done, and also assuming that you have
tried to follow the accounts of the Moplah revolt, the 1921 rebellions etc.
which I talked about at length in ‘Historic alleys’, I will get to the topic,
which is all I could gather about the erudite Manjeri Ramaier, lawyer, social
worker and politician of Malabar. Much more than all that, he was simply a nice
man, one I would have loved to know and meet.
He was born on July the 5th 1877 to Sundaram Iyer
and Lakshmi Ammal, passed his matriculation and FA with distinction from
Manjeri and went on to do his BA in Madras Christian College, passing in 1896
and later, his Bachelors in Law in 1898. So we see him as the century turned, back
at Calicut, making a decent living as a well-known criminal advocate in Calicut
living at Annie Hall road.
Manjeri Subin SundarRaj, his great grandson explains - It was from Kallingal Madathil Rarichan Moopan, an affluent landowner
and chieftain of Kozhikode that Manjeri Rama Iyer bought the land where Annie
Hall, the home that later became Besant Ashram and till recently the State
Committee Office of Mujahid Centre is situated. The Kallingal Madathil family’s
Kallingal Bhagavathi Temple, which later attained fame through K.N. Ramadas
Vydiar and nalluveedu paramba which lay opposite and where Manjeri Rama Iyer’s
house was situated, were all owned by Rarichan Moopan. There was a special room
for Dr. Annie Besant atop Manjeri Rama Iyer’s house. Bishop C.W. Leadbeater,
close friend, associate and member of the Theosophical Society too had stayed
at Besant Ashram. It was during their stay at Besant Ashram that Dr. Annie
Besant and Leadbeater authored the book ‘Invisible Helpers’.M Rama Iyer |
One thing the reader should understand that those early decades of the 20th century were not like today. There was no equality, the caste rigors were stringent and the Moplah unrest at its nadir. There was less amity and more enmity in Calicut, and Calicut in the past was always famed for its amity between cultures. In these depressing times, the principles of Theosophy started by Mme Blavatsky, the Russian émigré and propounded by Anne Besant from Madras were influencing the educated masses enmasse. While VK Krishna Menon embraced it at Tellichery and headed off to Madras leaving Malabar for good, people like Manjeri Ramaier and many other Malabar nationalists who were part of the Malabar Congress committee, took it up seriously. C Sankaran Nair, G Parameswaran Pillai and Dr TM Nair were also among those who took up the cudgels in addition to congress political activities and rose against the Brahmin and upper caste issues plaguing Malabar then. Exhorting people to think rationally and propounding Vivekannada’s teachings, Rama Iyer took on Buddhism and became a theosophist. In his efforts since 1911, he was joined by an equally famous character named Mithavadi C Krishnan. They started a struggle against child marriage, untouchability and many other social evils present then and even created the league of liberal Brahmins or the Bharat Samaj. But well, for eating and living with untouchables, he was soon out-casted from his community.
At Calicut, the Tilak brand of home rule did not find favor
and after 1915, Rama Iyer was the fiercest proponent for the Besantine Home
rule league. He championed it vigorously spearheading the local chapter of the
27,000 members working for fruition of Besant’s vision. Perhaps he too stood at
the Town hall or Mananchira corners exhorting people to support self-rule.
Ramaaier soon became the President of the Home rule league in Malabar while KP
Keshava Menon its Secretary. Not only were self-rule aspects discussed, but also
other issues such as sanitation, elementary education for all etc.
M Kumaran |
In the meantime, we see that Ramaier had adopted Buddhism
and renamed himself Angarika Raman. His friend Mithavadi Krishnan vakeel did
likewise by converting to Buddhism. Opposite the Connolly Park, there existed a
well-stocked library and a Budha vihara with a Buddha statue brought from
Ceylon by CC brothers. A couple of Bodhi trees and the Vihara were the
handiwork of Ramaier and Krishnan vakeel (see the picture of the tree – courtesy
Hindu May 26th, 2013). Govinda Menon, Ayyathan Gopalan, Appu Nedungadi
(Kundalatha author and Nedungadi bank founder), Manorama Kunhikrishna Menon etc
were all his friends or ‘team’ as we say in Calicut. Their next action was the well-publicized
Tali temple entry. But first some background.
The biggest issue in those days was getting people to unite
in the midst of caste inequalities. Then again, the nationalist movement in
Malabar during the Pre-Gandhian era was led and maintained as an upper caste
organization. The Tiyyas stayed away and something had to be done to break the
impasse. The Tiyya reasoning was that the British had actually helped them
obtain a better standing in society, so they did not want to go against them
(as explained by Murkoth Kumaran- Ente jeevithakatha) and secondly they feared
that upper caste dominated Congress might revive caste-ism if they won. The Tiyyas
formed a 'Passive Resistance League' and decided to launch agitations against
the social separatism promoted by the higher castes and demanded representation
for Tiyyas in the elected bodies. This was also the period when certain roads and
temples were closed for such polluting castes, and one of them was the road
leading to the Tali temple. Another problem was education and so another demand
was to open Zamorin’s college to all castes.
The Annie hall group however, in the true spirit of a
theosophist participated in many activities designed to highlight such problems
and bring warring factions together. They travelled in the company of polluting
castes; attended their marriage ceremonies and convened ‘Mishrabhojanam’ of
mass lunches at Annie hall. And thus we get into the Tali agitation incident.
C Krishnan Vakeel |
Manjeri Ramayyar did not waste any time in breaching this
law and so he and his Tiyya friend C.Krishnan travelled along the Tali road in
a horse cart on the same day when the board appeared. After the act, he wrote a
letter to Thorne, “…since your notice limits the rights of a major section of
the subjects of His Majesty the Emperor, we have immediately utilized our right
by walking along the Padinjare Samooham Road (Western Samooham Road), one among
which has been mentioned in your notice. We would be thankful to you if you
take immediate action in this case of violation of law.” Neither the Zamorin
nor Thorne reacted strongly, they thanked Iyer for his letter and the matter
was judiciously dropped while the Tiyyas celebrated their success, but the act
did not result in any great change other than bringing larger awareness.
In between all this came up the issue with the Gibraltar
confinement. At a meeting in Madurai during February 1918, George Joseph
commented that for achieving Home Rule, people should agitate within India and recommended
that representatives be sent to England to demand self-government for India.
George Joseph was one of the three members of the first batch of Home Rule
Deputation. B.V. Narasimha Iyer and Manjeri Rama Iyer were the other members accompanying
George Joseph to London. This deputation set out for England in two batches on
10th March and 18th March 1918. Before reaching London, they had a halt at
Gibraltar. At Gibralter, their passports were seized and cancelled by the
British, so they had to turn back to India. Syud Hossain whom we talked about
earlier was also a member of this unfortunate group.
The next case again involved Manjeri Ramaier and Dr K.V
Choi, a Thiyya, who walked along the temple tank near Chalappuram in 1919. The
temple authorities filed a criminal case against Choi in the Sub magistrate’s
court, Calicut. The New India of 22nd February 1919 reported it as a
sensational case of pollution and this was the first case of its kind in
Malabar. C Krishnan recommended that Choi request his close friend Manjeri
Ramaier’s help and Iyer defended Dr.Choi to win the case.
As we head towards the 20’s, we can see that a split was
starting to come about those who supported the Montagu Chelmsford political
reforms and those who did not. The former, the Besant-ites which included
Ramaier were for home rule and the latter the Gandhiites were for full independence.
The cracks were evident in 1919 when Besant was rebuffed in a meeting at
Manjeri in spite of strident speeches by Ramaier and support from the Nilambur
Raja. KPS Menon, Rangaswamy Iyengar and Raman Menon supported the Congress
independence moves and a miffed Annie Besant walked out. Soon after, the Khilafat
movement started and it was finally time for Ramaier to slowly leave the scene,
which he reluctantly did, but all the while remaining a theosophist.
The situation became ominous by the 1920’s. This was when
the Malabar Moplah riots destroyed the calm in the region and set many
self-rule actions back. The British blamed the congress and the ‘fanatical
Moplah’, while the affected general public laid all blame squarely on the
Moplahs. Manjeri Ramaier reacted
strongly by stating that the sword that was used to cut human throats in Eranad
was to be in fact directed against Mahatma Gandhi and Khilafat leader Shaukath
Ali. Iyer was not just a supporter of the Hindu downtrodden, but also the
affected Moplah. The Mappila Muslims, were subjected to extreme tortures under
the British military expansions to Malabar in the early 1900’s. Manjeri Ramaier
is quoted to have said as follows, “There were no provisions to win bail for a
detained Mappila Muslim. No recommendations worked out in favour of him. None
among the witnesses dared to give statements in favour of a Mappila Muslim,
while they were trialed under riot charges by the British. When somebody came
up to give statements in favour of the Mappila Muslim detained under trial, he
too was made a culprit under similar charges. Once the Mappila Muslim gets
detained under riot charges, he was obliged to prove his innocence on his own
rather than the one’s making accusations proving him guilty”.
The Bodhi Tree |
Manjeri Ramaier then took up the initiative in promoting
Khadi and the boycott of foreign clothes. On 9 November 1929 The Kerala Yuvak
Sangh was organized at Calicut with Manjeri Rama Iyer as president. The sangh
was to carry on active propaganda for donning Khadi, prohibition of liquor and
starting again the traditional Kalari system. As expected, this organization
was declared unlawful through a notification in the Fort St George Gazette in 1932.
Meanwhile, Ramaier continued on with his work to spread
Besant’s ideology. The Mangalore theosophical society owes its success to
Margaret Cousins and Manjeri Ramaier. But by 1930 Ramaier formally left
Congress and in the Payyanur conference even opposed Nehru’s resolution of
Purnaswaraj.
Returning back to Annie hall road and the fourth decade (I
must apologize for not spending more words on Annie Besant and Leadbeater’s
work in Malabar, which I promise to make good in a forthcoming article) Iyer took
to journalism and law, having left politics. As Manjeri Subin Sundar Raj, his
great grandson explains - Sir C.P. Ramaswami was brought to
Kozhikode by Rama Iyer and at Besant Ashram he was entrusted with the vakalath
to defend Annie Besant upon allegations propagated by renowned philosopher
Jiddu Krishnamurthi’s father, that her people had kidnapped Jiddu’s brother
Nityananda. It was the result of admiration and a sense of innate closeness
with Dr. Besant that made Manjeri Rama Iyer named his house ‘Besant Ashram’ and
the adjoining lodge ‘Annie Hall’. The Municipality widened
the existing narrow lane and it was rechristened ‘Annie Hall Road’. He
continues - At a point in history when inequality and abhorrent customs were
rampant, Besant Ashram was the platform where strong voices were raised,
revolutionary ideas were born and radical actions were taken against such
oppression.
I still recall going to the Sreekandeswaram temple grounds
to listen to an S Janaki concert and later another where my wife had sung. At
that time, I did not know that this was the handiwork of stalwarts like Ramaier
who wanted a temple for everybody, to be built in Calicut (Sree Narayana Guru
had, I believe, come for the consecration event).
Manjeri Rama Iyer who was ostracized by his own community
for his affinity towards the downtrodden and the lower castes, never looked
back. He held the position of Diwan for the Nilambur raja after leaving
congress and in 1937 for a while after which he became an ascetic. He sporadically
continued with journalism, writing and editing for West coast spectator and
Santhana Dharma and with Manjeri Ramakrishna Iyer (Secretary -Buddhist
theosophical league) wrote the first guide book on Buddhism called
Buddhadharmam. He continued with his social work until he died in 1958, aged
81.
His children, especially his daughter Kamalamma (Kamalambal)
followed in his footsteps, working with Annie Besant (not to forget, Iyer’s wife
was also very much involved in uplifting women’s inequality matters). She was
the first president of the Malabar branch of the Women Indian Association. She
passed away, just 9 years after her father. She merits an article on her times and
interestingly, I started my own life in Calicut attending kindergarten in her
personally managed school, the Balavrindavan, at Chalappuram. And look at it -
here I am sitting and wondering how small this word is, as I see how our mundane
lives crisscross at some point or other!
An example of his oratory and conviction can be seen in this
simple utterance - Ramaier’s precondition for Home Rule was to break the
shackles which bound us. He said in the 1917 Calcutta annual convention - "This
resolution calls for social freedom by which we shall shatter the shackles that
bind the lower classes. They are the foot of tile nation and if you and I would
climb the hill of Home Rule, we must first shatter the shackles on our feet and
then and then only will Home Rule come to us. You cannot be political democrats
and at the same time social autocrats. Remember that a man, a social slave,
cannot be politically a free man. We all have come here to see the vision of
United India, not only politically united but united all along the line. Therefore,
let those of us, who are Brahmins, who belong to the higher castes, go to our
villages and shatter the shackles of the low castes, people who are struggling
against our own men, the social Bureaucrats of our own land."
Sadly, people like Rama Iyer cannot be found anymore, perhaps
our creator Brahma is on an extended vacation…………………
References
Manjeri Rama
Iyer and Home Rule Agitation in Malabar - TP Sankarankutty NairManorama Article – translation by Manjeri Subin Sundar Raj
ARS Iyers autobiography
Social and religious transformation of Kerala with special reference to Brahmananda Sivayogi – VN Sujaya
George Joseph and the national struggle for freedom – R Renjini
The Quest for Social Justice: Malabar, 1882-1947 – PM Ismael
Women In public Life in Malabar- 1900-1957 – V Vasanthi
Print and public sphere in Malabar: a study of early newspapers (1847-1930) - Stella Joseph
Neo Buddhism in Kerala: The Legacy of Mithavadi C Krishnan
I apologize for the length of this article, for it far
exceeds the attention span of a lay blog reader. My hope is that this will
interest somebody someday.
Pics – Ramaier (KFCS Souvenir 2013), Bodhi maram (Hindu), M
Kumaran (wiki),
21 comments:
As a senior citizen it was like watching the replay of Calicut History.Interesting especially some of the names are connected
Maddy had missed your posts for some time as I don't get them by mail
this one is another gem specially the Calicut feel of those days rising from your imagination
thanks premnath..
glad that you enjoyed it. I have been trying to get some photos as well, but did not manage them yet..
thanks hari..
hope you are doing well..i could not get too much information on Iyer after 1930, but will add if I get some
Greetings Sir
Much appreciate your effort in compiling these facts, people like me got a chance to acquaint our self with the bygone era and culture. You just opened the door of curiosity. It surely did caught the interest or rather ignited the mind to start the search for more.
Thank you.
thanks sangita
glad you enjoyed it. you can find more interesting articles at this site...feel free to look around.
I was pleasantly surprised to read your comments on me and my recollections of Calicut in my Autobiography as I was browsing through your Blog. It brought back memories of my short life on Annie Hall Road in Calicut. May Lord Guruvayurappa bless you and your family.
thanks ARS Iyer,
It was great reading the biography and your input about those times.
I have a question about the Pottekat story, will contact you separately.
Thanks for this amazing slice of history, Maddy!
I've always been intrigued by the name Annie Hall too - especially after viewing the 1977 Woody Allen movie Annie Hall too :)
(My husband's ancestral home is in Manjeri and he is a grand-nephew of K Madhavan Nair)
Thanks Lekha...
All these people worked hard to make the world we live in, what it is...
Now they remain as memories....
Dear Maddy - thoroughly enjoyed your blog. For one like me born and brought up in Kizhakke Nada of Tali Temple, this blog was pure nostalgia.
Your article is very nostalgic, I was a visitor to Besant library while Kuttikrishnan master was at the helm of affairs. He was an admirer of Jiddu Krishnamurti and me at my early twenties loved to hear from him.
There are lot of people like me who love and admire this building and its legacy, Hope Adv Sunderraj and his son will understand the sentiments and keep the building for the next generation.
sunilpenothil, Bangalore
Hello Maddy, just discovered this article. My name is Rekha,great grand-daughter of Manjeri Rama Iyer, born in Calicut and brought up by Manjeri Kamalam....My grand mother. Thank u for writing this article.
Rekha Iyer, living in Montreal Canada.
thanks you rekha...
from tali to montreal....
must have been a long and eventful journey, i hope..
Beautiful write up... May be you could try a write up on your paternal grandmother's father as well, Late Manjeri Ramakrishna Iyer. Your appa may remember anecdotes appamma would have uttered. I just happened to remember thatha and googled to find this. Stay blessed, Subin.
Hi Sougandhi
glad you liked this, but just to clarify, the writer is me Maddy, not Subin..I am not part of the Rama Iyer family, but a history enthusiast
Excellent write up! Thanks a lot.
Dr Ambedkar's book(What Congress and Gandhi Have Done to the Untouchables) starts with this speech of Shri Rama Iyer.
Nice travalogue down the lanes of history. Manjeri Ramakrishna Iyer is my thatha. Manjeri Anandan was my appa.
ThanX, Maddy. Manjeri Ramakrishna Iyer is my thatha. Pranams, Sougandhi Sarath
I love the movie - one of my favorites. It had a light side to a difficult operation - not overly dramatized. I like the additional information you add about the raid. It was very helpful - thank you.
This article was very informative and definitely worth my time . I honestly didn’t realize my great grandfather was such an amazing person , my dad (Adigopal Manjeri Subramaniam ) lives behind The theosophical society and always mentioned to me about Manjeri Rama Iyer.
I used to play around Besant ashram and ride my bicycle on the theosophical society grounds , go to Bombay store and visit Balan uncle for the books ; not even realizing the sheer importance of the land I stood up on .
Overall, I feel Proud to be part of the legacy.
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