The ubiquitous
Olakkuda of Malabar
Though I knew a bit about the palm leaf umbrella, the
olakkuda of Malabar, I never knew until recently that it was more popularly
known as the Palghat umbrella. I saw it
mentioned so in the pioneering book Saraswati vijayam by Potheri Kunhambu, for
the first time. The entire book (its English translation by Dilip Menon for the
Book literary trust series) had that umbrella as a motif at the start of each
chapter and on its cover (the laborer is chained to his umbrella). That it was
used by the nobility as well as the lowly serf was quite clear, so I still do
not understand its significance in the book, but let’s leave that discussion
for now and concentrate on the umbrella. Some years ago, my departed friend, the
late Abraham Tharakan had written an article on this very same subject, but I
thought I should revisit the topic with more detail, also because a researcher
requested some dope on the subject, for her continuing work.
And so we go to those days when there was hardly any traffic
on the road. People walked long distances, sometimes for many days, stopping
only for food and ablutions. The noble accompanied by a retinue of servants
legged it out on finished and unfinished roads, stopping to sleep at satrams or
choultries. One should also remember that only very high ranking nobles or
ladies were carried in a pallaku or palanquin by bearers, the rest walked.
Let’s see how Kunhambu described one such walker…
“Kuberan Nambudirpad
was of average height with a fair complexion tinged with red. He was wearing a
fine mundu tied rather high to make walking easier. There was a freshly
laundered cloth on his shoulder with which he occasionally wiped his
perspiration. To ward off the heat, he held above his head a long-handled
Palghat umbrella, which he would hand over to the servants whenever they paused
in the shade”.
Why would it be called a Palghat Umbrella? I can only
surmise that the reason was that makers of such umbrellas, so also the raw
material - the Palmyra leaf, were both native to Palghat. The latter is quite
apparent, for you will see a number of the tall Palmyra trees only in Palghat.
While the Palmyra is the official tree of Tamil Nadu, Palghat being a border
district is naturally home to a number of them. Today you may not see many, but
I can assure you the fruit of the palm, the panam nongu (edible jelly) is
something to slurp, eat and enjoy. If you have not had it, you have truly
missed something. Palghat has always been known as land of Palmyra or black
palm trees (à´•à´°ിà´®്പനകളുà´Ÿെ à´¨ാà´Ÿ്) and are mentioned in many a
book set in Palghat. Then again, you may recall that these palms were also
associated with bewitching yakshi stories (see my article).
Now let’s get to the makers/weavers. The Panan community were
at some time the sole supplier of the Palghat umbrella. Later they diversified
to become iterant bards, arriving at a tharavad and singing about their
greatness or even for communities such as Christians where they would arrive to
sing about their origins. But before all that they monopolized umbrella making
and in Palghat, and it was the privilege of Panan headman to present umbrella
to Palakkad Rajah by custom. This Palghat umbrella was also known as Malabar
umbrella. There were many versions, the long handled olakkuda, the hat version
– the toppikuda, the version meant mainly for Nambudiri woman, the marakuda.
One could go on to make studies on how it is also popular in
the whole of SE Asia and even China,
for you can still see similar contraptions
all over South Asia, SE Asia and mainland China, and I will only skim through
it a little later. There could also be questions as to whether the concept came
from those places, but I will leave that subject for others to pursue when they
have the time and inclination.Strange is the story of this umbrella - The palm-leaf umbrella which a Nambudiri (Kerala Brahmin) women invariably used as a shield and cover themselves from prying eyes, during their rare outings and escorted by Nair (Sudra) maids called Vrashalis, was the craftwork of untouchables from the Panan community. See how the caste play worked!
The Panans, according to early ethnographies, were
traditionally parasol-umbrella makers and are believed to be resident
throughout Palghat, Cochin and Trichur and in parts of Tamil Nadu. They are
described by E. Thurston as "exorcists" and "devildancers"
and their womenfolk were known to be midwives and had good knowledge of plants
and herbs used as medicines. Some mention that the term Panan comes from the
word pan meaning music and as you will see they did moonlight as bards of a
sort. Another business they associated with was magic and sorcery and they were
known to engage on request in performing voodoo and black magic (Odi). It was
also believed that they have the power to transform themselves into wild animals.
But for generations and all practical purposes, these families had provided
umbrellas to everyone in their village. While this was their official
occupation, it appears that they were unofficially, called upon to perform
rituals that included exorcisms.
Now there is a bit of curiosity in this whole business,
though I have not been able to figure out why. While the making of umbrellas
with Palmyra (incidentally they are dried palm leaves – Cadjun leaves) leaves
is a Panan’s occupation, he cannot make the whole of the umbrella. While he
makes the leg and the cane framework, the palm leaf weaving and attachment has
to be carried out by women in his family. If he has no female relatives of his
own, capable of finishing of his umbrellas, he must secure the services of
other females in the neighborhood. They are also experts in making umbrella
made of palm leaves for the use of farm laborers (Toppikuda – slightly smaller).
These communities are attached to the land owning families and are obliged to
supply the required number of palm leaf umbrellas to their patrons at the onset
of monsoon, so also leaf plates to Ezhava’s on ceremonial occasions. Another curiosity
is that basket- makers, called Kavaras will never hold an umbrella, as they
have a motto “Do not take hold of Panan's leg." There is so much more
connected with the workings of this community, but this is not the place to
talk about devils, exorcisms, voodoos and the such. We will stick to their
umbrella making skills.
There are subtle differences, for example the length of the
handle determines the prestige of the holder. The fringes are sometimes adorned
with tender coconut leaf arrangements. The correct way to carry a Palghat or
Malabar umbrella is to ensure that the end of the handle rests on the palm
carrying the umbrella with the arm straight by the side in an L formation. The
diameter is usually 36 inches.
As umbrella demand dwindled, the Panan and his wife Patti, armed with a Maddalam and cymbals, and the small Pana veena visited each Nayar and Nambudiri households between midnight and dawn during festival seasons, singing sweetly of the history of the land and the emergence of Nambudiri supremacy. Or in the case of Christian households, the advent of Christianity. They also sang the Tuyil unarattu (awakening) song with the patti keeping the beat striking a bell metal vessel with a knife.
Early British administrators were not very happy when these local
parasols were replaced by imported British umbrellas. In fact the local
manufacture of ugly European black umbrellas started at Calicut. Innes stated that these (Cadjun) umbrellas were more serviceable than those of European manufacture and provides more details -
No
turban is worn; it is in fact wrong for the higher castes to cover the head;
but it is their universal practice to carry an umbrella. The lower castes often
twist a small cloth loosely round the head in the form of an embryo turban; but
this should be removed in the presence of superiors, before whom custom demands
that inferiors should always appear bare above the waist. Characteristic of the
West coast is the umbrella or mushroom-shaped hat made of palmyra leaves, which
is invariably worn by fishermen and agricultural coolies, and serves as an
admirable protection against sun and rain; such a hat with a crown too small
for the head is often carried by Nayar women in their hands instead of an
umbrella.The umbrella of the country is made of leaves of the umbrella palm or
the palmyra with a long bamboo handle, of which the length increases according
to the dignity of person carrying it. It should be carried with the end of the
handle in the palm of the hand and the arm stretched down at full length. But the
ugly European black umbrella is becoming more and more common.
The editor of the Asiatic journal also expounds on its qualities while comparing it to a smaller Javanese toppikuda or umbrella hat, but the Javanese umbrella is varnished on the outer surface - An excellent hat of this description is worn by the fishermen of Malabar, and others much exposed to rain, of the western shores of India. It is usually composed of a palm leaf, perhaps that of the cocoanut tree, and is not varnished. It is in size generally between an umbrella and a lady's parasol; about the shape of the latter, but not so deep in the concavity. In the center is a receptacle for the head, like the crown of a hat, or like that part of our university caps. The article is very light, and very efficient in resisting rain as well as sun; covering, indeed, with a little address in the position and movements of the head, nearly the whole person. Nor is it liable to fall, nor, unless in very high wind, to be blown off. Altogether it is, we think, the most sensible and useful protector of the head against weather that we have ever seen….
Anthropologist Thurston is more detailed in his thoughts, he
attributes the color of the Nair to carrying an umbrella. He goes on to state -
It should have been noticed before that
the colour of the face of the ordinary Malayali is invariably lighter than that
of the body; possibly from the prevailing custom of using the umbrella. Malabar
is for the most part shaded by trees and palms, and its peoples have not that
disregard for the sun’s javelins which we see in the country to the eastward.
No one starts on a journey, and rarely leaves his house, without his
umbrella-the thing of cadjan now being by degrees replaced by the cheap
umbrella of European manufacture. The labourer working in the field, the
fisherman in his boat on the sea, the boatman on the backwater, all wear a
large umbrella-like hat. Women always carry an umbrella out of doors; or, as in
North Malabar, an umbrella hat-like thing which seems to be a curious survival
of the custom of wearing an umbrella hat, is carried. This is, apparently, an
ordinary umbrella hat, but the central part which appears to be made to fit the
head, as in the ordinary umbrella hat, is too small by half to fit any head,
and this hat-like umbrella is carried in the hand to shield the head from the
sun and the face from the inquisitive passerby. The fact remains that the
Nayar, of whom we are now speaking, who never or very rarely wears any covering
on the head, cannot withstand the effect of the direct rays of the sun without
an umbrella. A few hours’ walk in the midday sun where there is little or no
shade, is sufficient to bring on fever to the ordinarily strong man.
If one were to compare these with early oriental hats of
China and SE Asia, you will see that (The Atlantic, Volume 40) - The Oriental hat is of basket-work. Shade
and ventilation are the great needs, not warmth. The Chinese hat, for instance
is of bamboo splints, inside and out, inclosing leaves of the bamboo, the
diameter of the brim is 18”. The Siamese hat of Gnaup is 18” in diameter, and
is of plantain or bamboo leaf on a frame of rattan. The skeleton head-piece is
lashed by rattan to the inside of the crown, and does not allow the head to
touch the surface of the hat, thus securing perfect ventilation all round.
In fact some olakkuda versions had decorations, for the
above source explains – The Indian
umbrella is made of palm leaves laid upon a rattan frame. The hat is ornamented
beneath with white paper, red cloth, mica, and green beetle-wing covers; also
with pendants of mica and beads. The head-band is cylindrical, and is also of
palm leaf with cloth binding. The brim is thirty six inches in diameter, and
bears the palm for size among Asiatic hats.
That it has been in vogue in Malabar for many centuries is
clear. Ibn Batuta recalls meeting a Zamorin (1342) wearing a dhoti and
strolling along a Calicut street, towards the beach to inspect a wreck- “his
clothing consisted of a great piece of white stuff rolled about him from the
navel to the knees, and a little scrap of a turban on his head; his feet were
bare, and a young slave carried an umbrella over him." So you can see that
these were used in Malabar for many centuries until the 20th.
As public transportation became popular, the carriage of these umbrellas was a problem since they could not be folded. In fact Devaki Nilayangode mentions this in her memoirs. She says that Anterjenams could not easily board any bus with their clumsy marakkudas. So you can imagine how modernity, locomotion and development killed the ancient Palghat parasol.
By the 20th century, the Seemakuda took over in
Malabar and the ugly black umbrella became commonplace. This changed over time,
with different fabrics, handles, push button opening, sizes and nowadays UV
proof. In fact there are mosquito repellent versions too. The first
manufacturers in Kerala were Ebrahim Currim & Sons in Calicut, who
established a unit there, after thriving at Bombay (first started in 1860) and
Madras. The official record states - Prior
to the opening of the Calicut branch the majority of the people on the Malabar
coast used palm-leaves as protection against sun and rain, but Messrs. E.
Currim & Sons have taught them to adopt umbrellas, and purdah ladies have
even been converted to the use of them. A large wholesale business, giving the
firm a practical monopoly in India in the umbrella trade, has been built up,
and the partners attribute this success in a very large measure to the strictly
honourable manner in which they conduct business. The gazetteer states - By 1933 there were three manufacturers in Calicut. The biggest of
them was owned by Nagji Purushotham (a football tournament was named after
him!) and is run by power. In those days, the iron ribs of the umbrella and the
cloth are imported from Germany or England! In those versions, the factories
made the sticks and handles from thin bamboos obtained from the local forests,
and the ribs and cloths were fitted to them. Calicut supplied umbrellas to
several other districts in the Madras presidency.
The extensive use of cloth umbrellas hit the Panan and the
Parayan communities owing to the lesser demand for their products. With that
the old fashioned but practical olakkuda and its variants died a death and the
Palghat umbrella gave way to the Calicut Umbrella!!
Though it was still used in the fields by the ladies working
there until the 80’s, we were in for a shock. When we joined NIT Calicut in the
late 70’s, I was amazed to see that the Toppikuda had been resurrected. During
the rainy or monsoon seasons, many a student had the toppikuda on his head, it
was more like a practical fashion statement, and I too purchased an inexpensive
one for myself! This was eventually gifted to a new student when I passed out. Perhaps
this entirely recyclable umbrella must have become manure or something else,
as days went by. These days you see them only during Onam seasons, with plays
and Faux Mahabali’s sporting them.
By the way how many of you know about an umbrella riot in
the Laccadives? It is somewhat connected to the topic of Malabar caste customs.
The koyas of Calicut established a similar caste hierarchy in the islands where
they were masters and looked down on the Malumis (sailors) and the Melacheris
(coconut pluckers). These lower classes were not allowed to carry or use any
kind of umbrellas. One day in Oct 1930, a shipment of western umbrellas arrived.
Eleven Melacheris and nine Malumis decided to defy the age old edict by
marching with unfolded umbrellas and this resulted in the Koyas calling out
their spearmen, and a riot of sorts occurred. But that is a story I guess, for
another day.
And so my friends, I have perhaps managed to waste a good
one hour of your time reading this seemingly useless bit of umbrella history
which I spent many hours to research and compile. Maybe I didn’t waste
everybody’s time, for there was one lady who desired more information for her film
project and who once asked me for this information, perhaps it will be of some
use to her, at least. And thanks to Mini Krishnan for getting me started on these
trains of thoughts and peruse Saraswati Vijayam, yet again…..
References
Malabar gazetteer – CA Innes
Malabar manual William Logan
Nayars of Malabar – F Fawcett
The Atlantic, Volume 40
Olakkuda – Palmyra leaf umbrella
The Bombay Presidency, the United Provinces, the Punjab, Etc
- Arnold Wright
The marakkuda and olakkuda features in many a Malayalam song
(Olakkuda choodunnoru, Manakkele thatte marakkuda thatte, Marakkudayal mukham
marakkum manalla…)
WISHING ALL READERS A VERY HAPPY AND PROSPEROUS
2018